Corona and farmers’ markets

Corona times have their impact on farmers’ markets. In my hometown Bonn (Germany), the downtown market suffered as all surrounding shops were closed. When was that? March, April? Corona took away my sense for date and time.

The markets in the suburbs boomed as home office meant also cooking at home instead of eating in the canteen at work. And supermarkets did not always provide the “proper” environment in these times.

Besides those general trends here in Bonn, there was also one person who stranded in Bonn during Corona times and built his own business at the market.

This is the story about Baptiste, a French student who visited his German girlfriend and because he could not travel back anymore decided to start again baking bread on a wood fire oven and sell it on 2 markets in Bonn.

He got into contact with a local pizza backer “Pizza Prinzip” , who caters with his wood fire oven pizza for several markets, and off he went.

So let’s listen to his story and craft.

How did it all happen?

Askan: Baptiste, who are you, where do you come from and what are you doing in general?

Baptiste: I am Baptiste Hagège, French from the Southeast of France, more precise the Drôme region. I am into sports, rehabilitation and physiotherapy and another passion: bread and pastries. I am doing the latter one since being a little kid.

Since you were a kid?

Yes indeed, since I was 13, I was selling cakes and pastries in a bakery.

Great. And how did it happen that you came here to Bonn?

My girlfriend Nadine is living here in the city of Bonn and I was suppose to visit her for a weekend. But with Corona suddenly air travel stopped, everything was shut down. So I decided to stay with her during the times of Corona.

That sounds quite romantic. I hope she liked it as well.

Yes, very much.

Now you are working at the market in Oberkassel (neighborhood in Bonn) with a wood fire oven from Pizza Prinzip. How did that cooperation happen? You probably haven’t heard from Pizza Prinzip already in France.

I discovered the farmers’ market at the Frankenbad in Bonn and I asked myself, hey why not start selling bread here. The major things for selling bread are, first making bread, having flour and an oven. For the flour I discovered the nearby Broicher Mühle and afterwards I started looking for a wood fire oven. I approached several bakers in vain and then I contacted Zoe who is running the Frankenbad market, who told me to call Boris (owner of Pizza Prinzip). We started a trial with one of his ovens and it worked out. So he told me: just do it!

So we started the first Friday market here in Oberkassel, it worked really well, people were coming back the next time, they really liked the bread, which is the most important part (laughing).

Baking bread in a wood fire oven

But tell me, what is so special with a wood fire oven? At home I am baking bread as well, but only in a normal electric oven.

What’s so special about the wood fire oven is that you have to preheat the stones inside first, then you put the bread in the oven and do not heat it anymore, the stones give back the heat. Therefore one has to master the heating of the oven, meaning having the right wood and fire to heat up the stone to the right temperature.

What does it do to the bread when you bake it in a wood fire vs. an electric oven like at home?

Well it first adds taste to it. A more distinct taste to the bread crust and a particular color, a little darker. The bread will also not be uniform, there will be for example some darker spots due to some ashes or so which gives authenticity to the bread.

Is it harder to handle such an oven?

Yes it is more difficult than pressing a button of a regular oven. Each one is different. And it is after two months that I start to understand how the oven works. Before that it is only tests. So it is a long process. Of course the type of wood is important which will add taste to the bread and heat up differently.

A different style of breads

When I look at your breads, your Pain au Chocolat, I wouldn’t know which type of style they are. The baguette is not the one I usually see in France, neither will I find your other breads in a German bakery. How would you describe it?

Well, I would say it is a bread from former times and which comes back into fashion again. The breads are sourdough based which helps to keep them fresh longer and gives them a distinct taste, a certain acidity. It won”t be the classic baguette which is eaten immediately. I am using whole flour not the white one.

Which are the flours you enjoy working with?

For making bread I like working with spelt, the one you can find here and the one from France.

And what do you like so much about spelt?

The “little” spelt is one of the most ancients cereals. It is a bit yellow and has a distinct taste, slightly spicy somehow, slightly sugary , a quite particular cereal.

Spelt is different to wheat, it will not rise as much when baking. And here in Bonn is also different to the one in France.

Oh really? What does this mean?

In France we have an organization which protects the “little spelt” . Here in Germany it cross bred with wheat, looks a bit more brownish, with a strong taster, partly reminding of rye. So it is really a different flour altogether. In France spelt is strongly protected and therefore “pure pure”.

Is rye being used in France?

Yes. And here I discovered at the “Broicher Mühle” a super beautiful rye with yellow, purple, black, white colors. It is really great to work with, it has a great taste.

The experience selling at a market

Have you ever worked on a farmers’ market before, with your own oven etc.?

Not it is my first time. It is the first time that I sell bread on a market.

Where you not scared working at a market making your bread “live” in front of everybody?

Oh yes, I was scared. When I had my first breads, they were a failure. So I put them aside. Then somebody wanted to buy them and I told him: no don’t buy them they are not good. But he still wanted to buy them and he liked them. The next breads turned out better nevertheless.

You had some experience as a youngster selling bread in a bakery, is this experience here at the market very different?

Ooh, yes, yes, it is a bit different. First it is a bit more complicated as I do not speak German. Okay, I know spelt flour, rye flour or “would you like a Pain au Chocolat” in German. But beyond that the communication with the people is different.

So it is the smile which wins at the end of the day, even under a mask in Corona times?

Exactly, the smile with the people is what counts. Then the people are happy.

Is it always the same people who came to you to buy bread? Or did it always change?

I have base of loyal customers, that is really a great experience, one of the most positive things I am taking with me being at the market. You meet every week the same people, they provide me with feedback, telling me what was good and what not so good as you have to consider that I am not really a professional who has done many markets. So I get a lot of advice from the local customers, and that is really super. And what is great they still come back when there was something not so great. They try something different, it is really nice.

The difference between markets

You are working at two markets: the one here in Oberkassel, rather a suburb and the other one at the “Frankenbad” in the “old town” of Bonn at the center. Is there a difference between the 2 markets? Or are they the same?

No, they are very different. On the level of the organization and people. In the “old town” market I have to first produce my bread in the oven and the transport it to the market with a trailer on my bike. Here in Oberkassel I produce the bread on the spot itself. There is also a different ambiance, here in Oberkassel people take more time to talk with each other. À Frankenbad people have less time, but they are a very different type of people. So there the markets have different type of customers, event though the age groups are similar at my stall. But as a whole there are more young people at Frankenbad who are more interested in the initiative. In Oberkassel people prefer the more traditional side. In Oberkassel the people are interested in the fact that I am a young guy and working to get things done. Frankenbad has a more alternative ambiance also when it comes to consumer habits.

And what does it mean in terms of sales? Is it different as well?

No, not really. People come, ask what kind of bread it is, we give them advice for example what they are going to have for dinner and give them the best choice. On the pastry level people have also the same preferences. It is kind of balanced between the two markets.

I have heard that you will come back one more time and then you will leave?

Yes.

Leaving the beautiful city of Bonn,

yes

your girl friend,

yes

the chance to bake bread and sell it

yes

Which is really pity from my perspective.

Now I know: I can make it!

But tell me how would you characterize your experiences here? What are your lessons learned? For you personally.

In the meantime the cook from nearby bistro came by and wanted to buy some bread as well. And after a chit chat Baptiste commented:

You see it is nice, he gets some breads from me and he brings me his great bowls, this exchange is really a nice experience. But also the ambiance amongst the traders is great. I give bread, I get fish. That is really a particular ambiance.

So what does this experience here means for your future? Is it something you do not want to do anymore because it is so hard?

It gave me the idea that it is feasible to do it. Baking breading, finding flour, starting the business, people who come back to buy again. At the beginning we wanted to do it for ourselves and now we want to do it for the customers. So these two things blend together, that is really super. I really got the feeling that I can make it.

So it means that one of these days we will see you here again? Maybe during vacation?

Why not. I call Boris (Pizza Prinzip owner) and will ask him if I can bake some bread in one of his ovens and then we start again.

Any final words?

First, I would like to thank Boris a lot for his help, he gave me everything and trusted me. That was top. You know I just the capabilities and he gave me all the materials. And even when I had a strange idea, he said “no worries, just do it”.

And second I would like to thank all the people from Bonn who bought my bread.

Epilogue

I was really impressed how Baptiste got stranded and found a way to make a living in a foreign city without any knowledge of the local language. And how people like Boris are helping in a practical way without knowing about the outcomes. These are the stories which make farmers’ markets unique places full of life.

A little link list:

• Market in Oberkassel
• Farmers’ market at the Frankenbad
• Pizza Prinzip who helped Baptiste with the wood fire oven
• The local mill Broicher Mühle for Baptiste’s bread
• The other markets in Bonn on this blog

The post How Corona “helped” me to start a business – Interview with Baptiste at the Oberkassel Farmers’ Market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Some years ago, when I started writing about farmers’ markets, I was looking for like minded bloggers. To my surprise I did not find a lot.

Yes a lot of food or travel bloggers present individual markets, especially on those popular ones like Borough market in London, La Boqueria in Barcelona, Pike Place market in Seattle and the like. One of my favorite posts in this regard is a holistic architectural critique of the very impressive market hall in Rotterdam. And there are many markets out there who conduct a blog on their website.

But those who focus on a broader range of farmers markets from a culinary travel or passionate perspective are very limited. I found only a handful who publish in the English language, my search for German & French ones was without success.

So here are my farmers’ market heroes, really only a handful. They all have different backgrounds and motivations and they all gave me a rich diversity of inspirations for a long time.

And a little disclaimer to avoid confusion about the term “farmers’ market”. I have not found a good single term which can express the different types of markets which deal primarily with food, e.g. market halls, outdoor markets, indoor markets, weekly market, daily market etc. So the term farmers’ market helps to distinguish all those categories from let’s say stock markets.

Marjorie R. Williams – Focus on France

I will always be grateful to Marjorie because she educated me to become a better blogger. She once approached me for an interview and her questions made me think in a more systematic way on why I love markets so much. It helped me to write in a bit more personal way and hopefully in a better English.

Marjorie is from Massachusetts in the US but has a passion for markets in France, especially the Provence area and Paris. Her market blog is coming from a travel perspective and helps you to find and discover new spots to be experienced during your – culinary – vacation time.

She is for me the Paris market “authority” par excellence and made the big effort to create a very extensive listing of all the Paris markets – including craft and antique ones.There is no way that I would travel there without having consulted her blog.

She makes her living from travel writing and teaching.

Her links:

• Website: Majorie R. Williams
• Books: Markets of Paris (already 2nd edition) & Markets of Provence
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• Pinterest

Joan Lambert Bailey of Japanfarmersmarkets.com

Joan from the US has been working once as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kazakhstan and I was a European Volunteer in Benin, West Africa, this is our connection beyond farmers’ markets. She is now living in Japan, focusing on food, its sustainable production and Japanese farmers’ markets  – all with a sense of community. And this can be felt in all her blog posts and Instagram pictures, it all revolves around great produce as a base for good food.

Especially in the Tokyo area she has visited many farmers’ markets held conversations and highlighted unique produce. Unfortunately I have never traveled to Japan despite having a great respect for its cuisine. Here Joan helps me to get a glimpse on the Japanese food & farmers’ market culture, which is different to the one in Germany where I live. Good to see this diversity on our planet.

Her links:

• Blog: Japan Farmers Markets
• Her writing website (business)
• Facebook
• Twitter: @JoanLBailey
• Instagram

Chiara Ugolini – Markets of Rome

Chiara is the market authority for Rome, Italy. No doubt about this one. I looks almost like she has talked to every single market vendor in Rome, really! This passion for the markets and their main actors can be felt in each post. It gives the markets a very human face and shows to every visitor that listening to vendors gives lots of lasting memories, maybe more lasting than those taken through the camera.

Chiara also gives guided tours on the markets in Rome. One day I will make it as well to listen to the stories of the markets and their people – and not forgetting to get a bite as well.

Beyond that she is a great net worker, if there will ever be an international club of farmers market bloggers, she will create it I guess

Her links:

• Blog Markets of Rome
• Facebook
• Twitter: @ugolinic
• Instagram
• Youtube
• AirbnB
• Mail

Karen Seiger – Markets of New York

Karen lives and runs in New York. Her blog is a comprehensive guide to the markets in this city, the purpose is to be a “resource for people who aspire to a higher quality of life and a sustainable lifestyle by supporting local businesses and buying directly from the people who make and grow the things we all need and want”. She goes to great length to list all the events which makes the markets even more attractive.

Her links:

• Website: Markets of New York
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• Mail

Robyn Eckhardt – Eating Asia

I got to know Robyn via social media a long time ago. She has a passion for the Turkish cuisine, something I share since I lived there once for a few months. She published a more than well researched book on this subject.

Coming from the US, she is often living In Malaysia and/or Italy, but travels quite frequently with her photographing partner David Hagerman to do research for her books. Her blog is not purely focused on farmers’ markets in various countries (Turkey, south east Asia and beyond) but she provided me with lots of inspiration, also for taking pictures.

Unfortunately it has been a bit quiet on her blog lately, still I am hoping for better times.

Her links:

• Blog: Eating Asia
• Her book Istanbul & beyond
• Facebook
• Twitter: @EatingAsia
• Instagram: IstanbulAndBeyond
• Mail

Askan Schmeisser – Food & Farmers’ Markets

Well, thats me from Germany. And the only male on this list. I observe this as rather typical for food related blogs except for those on BBQ and its equipment. I was raised with good food, worked for sometime in agriculture and have therefore a strong respect for farmers. Years after “everybody” had created a blog I wanted to start one as well. There was not much left to fill in, but farmers’ markets was a subject close to my heart and kind of an empty field to my surprise. German is my native language, but I decided to write in English as many of the people I know do not speak German.

As I have the chance to travel a bit, I appreciate the variety of markets which I hope makes my blog quite diverse. And one day I will reach the level of my colleagues on this list

Beyond my main blog, I also run with a friend a website on the markets of Bonn, Germany where I live. My latest project is the Bonn foodie calendar. For a living I work in telecoms.

My links:

• Main Blog: Food & Farmers Markets – well you are reading it right now
• My other websites: on the markets in Bonn and the foodie calendar
• Twitter: @askans
• Facebook
• Instagram: askans_
• Pinterest
• Mastodon: @askans@bonn.social
• Mail

Other inspirational blogs on farmers’ markets

There are still other bloggers I appreciate a lot and who inspire me as well:

Food Perestroika of Florian Pinel, a French guy living In New York. He covers the cuisine of Eastern Europe and Central Asia, and at times farmers’ markets in a remarkably high level.

Traditonal Markets by Sara Gonzalez of the UK is more academic and activist when it come to the preservation of markets as important public places.

This Little Piggy by Megan Allan of South Africa  shows that they there is also a lively scene in this country, not only in the Cape area.

The post A handful – Farmers’ market bloggers around the world appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Tim Engelbrecht and his brother have founded Cookit 5 years ago and have stalls at three farmers’ markets: Cologne, Troisdorf and in Bonn where it all started. Their motto: one recipe, all ingredients, one bag.

We meet early Saturday morning before the crowds arrive. Tim had a short night as he had to work a bit longer than usual to prepare the Saturday sales. I am a bit nervous, as I conduct my first interview ever, but I know Tim and he is a fun guy, making it easy to me.

Interview

Askan: Hi Tim
Tim: Hi Askan

Askan: How long have you been at the Bonn market and what did you do beforehand?
Tim: We are now for almost 5 years at the market, we started with the asparagus season 2013. I went directly from university to the market.

Askan: You went directly from university to the market?
Tim: Already during my studies I worked on the Cookit concept. We opened the stall and then I finished my bachelor thesis. Somehow it just happened.

Askan: How would you describe your stall and what is being offered?
Tim: This is easy to explain: we always have six recipes to try. The customer chooses the recipe and gets a bag with all ingredients in the right amount needed. One can try it without having to buy extra ingredients or producing food waste. The underlying idea is to cook with regional ingredients.

Askan: Which recipes are the most popular with customers and which ones do you prefer?
Tim: Myself, I prefer hearty food, autumn & winter cooking is really mine, I love cabbage, cheese, everything which has a lot of power. With customers it depends on the weekday. During the week they prefer a light and quick cuisine, whereas at the weekend there is a tendency to cook more elaborate recipes.
Askan: So, the Sunday roast is still alive?
Tim: Yes indeed, meat based recipes sell more at the weekend.

Askan: When do you have to get up in the morning and how many hours do you make per week in average?
Tim: In average? Hmm … Let’s say it this way: we are lucky when we work less than 80 hours. The Bonn farmers’ market is unlike other markets open all day long. Everything you have to do besides selling, like filling up the cart, set it up and clean it you do outside the opening hours. I get up between five and six o’clock.

Askan: In all my conversations at various markets across Europe I got to know that it is very difficult to find successors for market stalls, due to the long and hard working hours.
Tim: Yes this is the case. We have the luxury that we start at the markets on Wednesday, we use the time until then to develop recipes.

Askan: What is fun in your work and what is not fun?
Tim: Hard to tell, this depends how the week is evolving. It is great to develop new recipes, to photograph and sell them afterwards. And what we all love is sales, on Saturdays, when the crowds come, the buzz never stops, and we have stress for 8 hours in a row, this is when we have fun. You realize that all your efforts work out and there is a real flow, this is fun. Less fun is of course when after 14 hours you have to clean up everything. Or the anti-day: you have prepared everything for the day and the local radio station announces a severe weather warning! You know instantly that in the evening you go back home with half of your prepared stuff.

Askan: How would you describe the Bonn farmers’ market?
Tim: I think it is a classic market, centrally located, full of buzz, a nice market. Meanwhile we have a nice diversity of choices. I also like that the market is managing the stretch between street food and classic offering. Here in the heart of the city, it is easy to get a good lunch at the market, and then buy some produce. It is a market I really love.

Askan:  What should be improved or changed?
Tim: Well, … I don’t know. The market as it is now is around since a while. One may appreciate this one way or the other. I like changes a lot, especially visible ones. This creates incentives for people who walk by every day to join their work places. I like the fact that there is now more street food available. I would appreciate some additional delicacies, as something new is very interesting for customers – and for us as well (laughing).

Askan: Who are your customers?
Tim: Regulars, absolutely. We have customers who purchase from us since 5 years, and they have not left out any single recipe. We have customers, whom we are handing over our recipe cards they have missed during their vacation. The majority of the customers come at least once a week. We are not the kind of stall, where you walk by and say: great lets try it. Most people come by several times, and when the moment is right for them, they buy.

Askan: Bonn is an international city (e.g. United Nations etc.), do you have many international customers?
Tim: Rarely. There some international students who practice their German with our recipe cards. Generally our concept focuses on the local, regional cuisine. This has to fit your own taste and cooking scheme, which varies depending where you are coming from. But we speak English, whereas my French I learned at school is rather limited (laughs).

Askan: Thanks for the interview Tim.
Tim: Pleasure, it was fun!

Link list & map

• The cookit website
• My post on cookit on this blog
• The interview in German
• The other stalls at the Bonn market

The post Sometimes hearty, sometimes quick – Interview with Tim from Cookit at the Bonn Farmers’ Market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Surprise: winter is cold

It is cold, it is grey on this winter day in Zagreb, but suddenly there are bright summer colours popping up. Piles of oranges, mandarines, apples, kiwis and the abundant red umbrellas pop up when approaching the Kvatric market (or Kvaternikov Trg). A friendly touch to this day.

Located next to a larger street (Ulica Pavla Šubića), the iron fence around the market gives a feeling of being a protected school yard. And it is busy indeed, despite being smaller than the more famous Dolac market.

Structure & order are everything

The city of Zagreb has a very clear idea on how a market has to be like: it has to look very, very organized and structured. All stalls in the centre have the same tables of the same size of the same shape. Against sun, rain and maybe bad luck the stalls are all protected by the same umbrellas, the ones beach cafés might use as well. There is a section with open stalls which need refrigeration and a glass protected display. Also here the same size, shape and style. The open space is surrounded by permanent structures which look also similar to one another.

The vendors

The vendors, mainly ladies, gave this rigid structure and organization a nice charm. To my relief some of them spoke English. The cheese stands operated by old ladies throughout, my lack of Croatian by big smiles and body language for great conversations.

I don’t know how they made it throughout the day in this cold weather as not everyone had an outdoor heater to get at least some warmth. And the cafés at the market helped as well. The weather did not stop people from leaving the market with their hands full of large bags with merchandise.

The offering – quite local

The offering was seasonal for sure. Oranges, apples everywhere. Cabbage, beets, potatoes, carrots, dried beans of all kinds were the common vegetables. Pickles, open sauerkraut, and whole fermented cabbages were unique and interesting to discover.

Strange to me was the set of egg shops, maybe half a dozen all in permanent structures. So many eggs on one single market. No idea why.

The old ladies of the cheese stalls offered only local ones, no Camembert or so.

The butcher had a shop on the side of the market with classic cuts of beef and pork and some dried sausages. As he allowed me to take some pictures, he took away the tray of sweetbreads as he deemed it as not esthetic enough. What a pity.

One my way out I was surprised to discover the small fish market hall: beautiful selection of Mediterranean fishes like sea devil, calamari and live shrimps. It is almost as living at the sea. Not too many customers were on a shopping spree, an easy time to take some pictures. One fish monger even posed some seafood to get better pictures.

All in all: a typical Zagreb market, a little bit hidden, worth a visit for market lovers who want to experience charming vendors

A little link list:

• A blog post on the market from tatjanapasalic.com
• The official/administrative site for all Zagreb markets from Zagrebački Holding – trznice-zg.hr  with the listing of all the vendors

The post Kvatric outdoor market, Zagreb / Croatia appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Heading back from a visit of Soulard market in St. Louis, Missouri, we came across Kirkwood farmers’ market. This little market was founded in 1976 and serves the community. It consists of a permanent structure.

Approaching the market from the small parking lot, we were greeted by a friendly sculpture: an iron farmer painted in green.

The variety of products is quite large despite the size. All the standard produces were available. Melon were in season as well as tomatoes, corn, etc. and my favourite: potatoes. Pretty much basic and Mid-Western.

A few unusual things to me were the elk & bison meat in the freezer. I have never seen them were I live. The bison summer sausage we tried had a smooth and nicely spiced taste – worth a purchase.

To get an overview over the market does not cost a lot of time. Being there for the first time one feeling persists: it reminds rather of an outdoor supermarket than of a farmers’ market. Probably one needs to be a local and develop some kind of relationship with vendors to fully appreciate its beauty.

All in all: reminds rather of an outdoor supermarket, bison sausage was nice.

A little link list:

• Official market website from the city of Kirkwood
• A post with nice pictures from Carrie Nenonen
• A nice post of the Kirkwood Public Library with a list of books related to farmers’ markets
• A short selection of farmers markets in St. Louis
• An interactive map of farmers’ markets in St. Louis area from the St. Louis Dispatch

The post Kirkwood farmers’ market, Missouri / USA appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.