Berlin: Endearing Muse

Berlin, a city I hold in deep regard, never ceases to amaze me. While I may not choose to establish my permanent abode here due to its stressful pace, my visits to this vibrant metropolis never fail to inspire. What truly distinguishes Berlin is its remarkable diversity – a mosaic of cultures, people, and experiences that you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Each time I meander through its streets, I encounter a world of individuals with stories and backgrounds vastly different from my own. It’s a city where countless small entrepreneurs strive to create and share unique, niche products. And, of course, there’s the irresistible allure of high-quality street food. This extraordinary diversity comes to life in the heart of the city at the Maybachufer market.

The name “Maybachufer” conjures images of a market winding along a serene stream, flanked by tall trees offering comforting shade to both vendors and visitors.

Fondly known as the Turkish Market (Türkenmarkt), this market likely earned its nickname due to the Turkish heritage of many traders or because it perfectly encapsulates Berlin’s vibrant tapestry of people and goods.

The Symphony of Commerce

Maybachufer market is a breathtaking symphony of the economy in all its forms. It’s where you’ll find small-scale producers offering one-of-a-kind artisanal treasures alongside stalls piled high with budget-friendly, mass-produced items. Whether you’re in search of organic or conventionally grown foods or yearn for an international culinary adventure, this market delivers it all. Every step you take reveals products that are rare gems in Germany, from refreshing sugar cane drinks to freshly crafted Tahini, syrups infused with foraged herbs, and so much more. It’s a place where hours can slip by unnoticed as you lose yourself in its vibrant offerings.

Navigating the vastness of this market is an adventure in itself. When my nephew first introduced me to it, what we thought would be a quick overview turned into a delightful exploration. This market caters to everyone, offering a diverse range of products to suit all budgets – from wallet-friendly vegetables to the treasures of small-scale farmers and trendsetting traders.

The Art of Discovery

“Discoveries” are the essence of the Maybachufer market. Here, you can find your everyday staples presented in unique and captivating ways.

For those who love to cook on a grand scale, there are vegetables and fruits aplenty, sold in abundance and at affordable prices. These items, often sourced from wholesale markets, are labeled “Industrieware” in German meaning “industrial grade”, indicating that they may not meet the size and shape criteria of standard supermarkets. This makes them perfect for budget-conscious shoppers who prioritize quantity over organic perfection.

The market also boasts a regional farmer’s corner, offering seasonal delights like exquisite salads and herbs, albeit at a different price point. Amidst the abundance of budget-friendly produce, the presence of premium options is a welcome choice of produce.

A Culinary Journey through Turkish Culture

Maybachufer market is a vibrant celebration of Turkish culinary culture. From Gözleme and “Spaghetti” cheese to a rich variety of peppers, sesame bread rings, olives, and pickles, the selection is both vast and enlightening. This market has deepened my appreciation for Turkish cuisine, extending far beyond the well-known and beloved Döner Kebap in Germany.

A Taste of Timeless Traditions

What I consider classic style harkens back to my upbringing in Germany, a time when the influence of migrants and diverse cultures was less pronounced. In those days, choices were more limited. Classic meant butchers stocked with ample pork and sausages, limited beef, and even scarcer lamb and goat. Strangely enough poultry was usually reserved to more specialized stalls. Classic also meant a wide variety of bread, from sourdough to yeast-based, often with a touch of rye, and, of course, an array of rolls. Fish was a rarity in my non-coastal region. Potatoes took center stage among vegetables, accompanied by generous servings of cabbage. In the summertime, diversity expanded to include salads, cucumbers, and more.

You’ll find this classic style at Maybachufer market, often with a modern, artisanal twist that adds to its unique charm.

Observations from a Farmers’ Market Aficionado

The Maybachufer Market is very large, so the chances are high for discoveries of things I have not seen before or a little twist here and there. This often means that I am looking a bit deeper into offerings that I am able to consume on the spot or carry around without the need for refrigeration. So meat, fish, many cheeses, fruits, and vegetables are out of the game. Is that meaningful?

I have visited many farmers’ markets in my life and have a certain routine and experience while keeping my passion alive. Certainly, for some of them, usually the rather smaller ones, I just need a glimpse to get an idea of whether the market is interesting or not. It is fairly easy to spot if the market is just a “replica” of a supermarket offering, or if it mainly caters to tourists, or if it comes with stalls that truly have character. Character means that there is a strong regional background, niche offerings, unusual products, or a lively atmosphere because the people selling and buying are fun or knowledgeable.

The same applies to individual stalls. The questions I have in mind are: Does the stall provide unusual products, or does it have superior quality? Those are a bit more tricky to spot, especially when the focus of the respective stall is on commodities.

I also greatly appreciate entrepreneurs who are courageous enough to add new categories to a market. Here at the Maybachufer market, I found those entrepreneurs. A lady collected blossoms from different parks in Berlin to turn them into syrups and liquors. A gentleman was selling French natural wines. And a few more.

Coming back to commodities. Here, I have a harder time spotting the unusual or interesting. This could mean varieties of common vegetables with great taste or something similar, a seasonal regional specialty, or anything that makes me believe I could not easily buy it somewhere else. As I rarely buy commodities that need refrigeration when I am traveling, my eyes are not trained to spot them. That is a pity, and it’s hard to overcome.

The Flavors of Street Food

When it comes to street food at a farmers’ market, my feelings are mixed. On one hand, it adds vibrancy and provides a space for people to gather, engage, and savor delightful flavors. I’ve often observed this camaraderie at coffee stalls. On the other hand, it can sometimes overshadow the market’s traditional purpose – a place to procure fresh produce for home cooking. Fewer produce stalls may lead to less variety in food options. I’ve encountered too many street food stalls offering wraps and hamburgers, albeit of high quality, which can become monotonous, boring.

However, the Maybachufer market tells a different story. Here, you’ll find a captivating array of street food that defies the ordinary. From sugar cane or pomegranate juice to manti (dumplings) from Uzbekistan, boiled corn, empanadas, gözleme, and more, it’s a delightful tapestry of flavors from around the world. These culinary delights truly captivated my taste buds and expanded my culinary horizons.

A Dream of Melting Pot?

As I stand amidst the diverse produce and foods, amidst the kaleidoscope of cultures and businesses, I often dream of a true melting pot. In this ideal scenario, people from all backgrounds would share close relationships, harbor an insatiable curiosity for the unfamiliar, and communicate on equal footing, free from the confines of “us” and “them.” Yet, the reality I often encounter is one of co-existence without much interaction. I sometimes wonder if this is a missed opportunity.

Fascinating things happen when individuals step outside their comfort zones and engage with those from different cultures. It involves sharing ideas, experiences, and forging connections with those whose backgrounds differ from our own. While such moments may be infrequent, the Maybachufer market has, at the very least, provided me with the opportunity to glimpse a world beyond my own.

All in All

The Maybachufer market is a must-visit gem, a hidden treasure in the heart of Berlin. Its dazzling variety of produce, foods, and the people behind them, each hailing from diverse corners of the globe, is an experience that’s hard to replicate. Even if you don’t buy a single thing, it’s a feast for the eyes, a sensory journey through cultures and flavors, and a reminder that the world is a rich tapestry waiting to be explored.

A little link list:

• An other post on the Berlin market hall Markthalle 9
• How to get there from visitBerlin.de
• Some impressions from withberlinlove.com

The post Diversity at Its Best – Market at the Maybachufer, Berlin / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Corona and farmers’ markets

Corona times have their impact on farmers’ markets. In my hometown Bonn (Germany), the downtown market suffered as all surrounding shops were closed. When was that? March, April? Corona took away my sense for date and time.

The markets in the suburbs boomed as home office meant also cooking at home instead of eating in the canteen at work. And supermarkets did not always provide the “proper” environment in these times.

Besides those general trends here in Bonn, there was also one person who stranded in Bonn during Corona times and built his own business at the market.

This is the story about Baptiste, a French student who visited his German girlfriend and because he could not travel back anymore decided to start again baking bread on a wood fire oven and sell it on 2 markets in Bonn.

He got into contact with a local pizza backer “Pizza Prinzip” , who caters with his wood fire oven pizza for several markets, and off he went.

So let’s listen to his story and craft.

How did it all happen?

Askan: Baptiste, who are you, where do you come from and what are you doing in general?

Baptiste: I am Baptiste Hagège, French from the Southeast of France, more precise the Drôme region. I am into sports, rehabilitation and physiotherapy and another passion: bread and pastries. I am doing the latter one since being a little kid.

Since you were a kid?

Yes indeed, since I was 13, I was selling cakes and pastries in a bakery.

Great. And how did it happen that you came here to Bonn?

My girlfriend Nadine is living here in the city of Bonn and I was suppose to visit her for a weekend. But with Corona suddenly air travel stopped, everything was shut down. So I decided to stay with her during the times of Corona.

That sounds quite romantic. I hope she liked it as well.

Yes, very much.

Now you are working at the market in Oberkassel (neighborhood in Bonn) with a wood fire oven from Pizza Prinzip. How did that cooperation happen? You probably haven’t heard from Pizza Prinzip already in France.

I discovered the farmers’ market at the Frankenbad in Bonn and I asked myself, hey why not start selling bread here. The major things for selling bread are, first making bread, having flour and an oven. For the flour I discovered the nearby Broicher Mühle and afterwards I started looking for a wood fire oven. I approached several bakers in vain and then I contacted Zoe who is running the Frankenbad market, who told me to call Boris (owner of Pizza Prinzip). We started a trial with one of his ovens and it worked out. So he told me: just do it!

So we started the first Friday market here in Oberkassel, it worked really well, people were coming back the next time, they really liked the bread, which is the most important part (laughing).

Baking bread in a wood fire oven

But tell me, what is so special with a wood fire oven? At home I am baking bread as well, but only in a normal electric oven.

What’s so special about the wood fire oven is that you have to preheat the stones inside first, then you put the bread in the oven and do not heat it anymore, the stones give back the heat. Therefore one has to master the heating of the oven, meaning having the right wood and fire to heat up the stone to the right temperature.

What does it do to the bread when you bake it in a wood fire vs. an electric oven like at home?

Well it first adds taste to it. A more distinct taste to the bread crust and a particular color, a little darker. The bread will also not be uniform, there will be for example some darker spots due to some ashes or so which gives authenticity to the bread.

Is it harder to handle such an oven?

Yes it is more difficult than pressing a button of a regular oven. Each one is different. And it is after two months that I start to understand how the oven works. Before that it is only tests. So it is a long process. Of course the type of wood is important which will add taste to the bread and heat up differently.

A different style of breads

When I look at your breads, your Pain au Chocolat, I wouldn’t know which type of style they are. The baguette is not the one I usually see in France, neither will I find your other breads in a German bakery. How would you describe it?

Well, I would say it is a bread from former times and which comes back into fashion again. The breads are sourdough based which helps to keep them fresh longer and gives them a distinct taste, a certain acidity. It won”t be the classic baguette which is eaten immediately. I am using whole flour not the white one.

Which are the flours you enjoy working with?

For making bread I like working with spelt, the one you can find here and the one from France.

And what do you like so much about spelt?

The “little” spelt is one of the most ancients cereals. It is a bit yellow and has a distinct taste, slightly spicy somehow, slightly sugary , a quite particular cereal.

Spelt is different to wheat, it will not rise as much when baking. And here in Bonn is also different to the one in France.

Oh really? What does this mean?

In France we have an organization which protects the “little spelt” . Here in Germany it cross bred with wheat, looks a bit more brownish, with a strong taster, partly reminding of rye. So it is really a different flour altogether. In France spelt is strongly protected and therefore “pure pure”.

Is rye being used in France?

Yes. And here I discovered at the “Broicher Mühle” a super beautiful rye with yellow, purple, black, white colors. It is really great to work with, it has a great taste.

The experience selling at a market

Have you ever worked on a farmers’ market before, with your own oven etc.?

Not it is my first time. It is the first time that I sell bread on a market.

Where you not scared working at a market making your bread “live” in front of everybody?

Oh yes, I was scared. When I had my first breads, they were a failure. So I put them aside. Then somebody wanted to buy them and I told him: no don’t buy them they are not good. But he still wanted to buy them and he liked them. The next breads turned out better nevertheless.

You had some experience as a youngster selling bread in a bakery, is this experience here at the market very different?

Ooh, yes, yes, it is a bit different. First it is a bit more complicated as I do not speak German. Okay, I know spelt flour, rye flour or “would you like a Pain au Chocolat” in German. But beyond that the communication with the people is different.

So it is the smile which wins at the end of the day, even under a mask in Corona times?

Exactly, the smile with the people is what counts. Then the people are happy.

Is it always the same people who came to you to buy bread? Or did it always change?

I have base of loyal customers, that is really a great experience, one of the most positive things I am taking with me being at the market. You meet every week the same people, they provide me with feedback, telling me what was good and what not so good as you have to consider that I am not really a professional who has done many markets. So I get a lot of advice from the local customers, and that is really super. And what is great they still come back when there was something not so great. They try something different, it is really nice.

The difference between markets

You are working at two markets: the one here in Oberkassel, rather a suburb and the other one at the “Frankenbad” in the “old town” of Bonn at the center. Is there a difference between the 2 markets? Or are they the same?

No, they are very different. On the level of the organization and people. In the “old town” market I have to first produce my bread in the oven and the transport it to the market with a trailer on my bike. Here in Oberkassel I produce the bread on the spot itself. There is also a different ambiance, here in Oberkassel people take more time to talk with each other. À Frankenbad people have less time, but they are a very different type of people. So there the markets have different type of customers, event though the age groups are similar at my stall. But as a whole there are more young people at Frankenbad who are more interested in the initiative. In Oberkassel people prefer the more traditional side. In Oberkassel the people are interested in the fact that I am a young guy and working to get things done. Frankenbad has a more alternative ambiance also when it comes to consumer habits.

And what does it mean in terms of sales? Is it different as well?

No, not really. People come, ask what kind of bread it is, we give them advice for example what they are going to have for dinner and give them the best choice. On the pastry level people have also the same preferences. It is kind of balanced between the two markets.

I have heard that you will come back one more time and then you will leave?

Yes.

Leaving the beautiful city of Bonn,

yes

your girl friend,

yes

the chance to bake bread and sell it

yes

Which is really pity from my perspective.

Now I know: I can make it!

But tell me how would you characterize your experiences here? What are your lessons learned? For you personally.

In the meantime the cook from nearby bistro came by and wanted to buy some bread as well. And after a chit chat Baptiste commented:

You see it is nice, he gets some breads from me and he brings me his great bowls, this exchange is really a nice experience. But also the ambiance amongst the traders is great. I give bread, I get fish. That is really a particular ambiance.

So what does this experience here means for your future? Is it something you do not want to do anymore because it is so hard?

It gave me the idea that it is feasible to do it. Baking breading, finding flour, starting the business, people who come back to buy again. At the beginning we wanted to do it for ourselves and now we want to do it for the customers. So these two things blend together, that is really super. I really got the feeling that I can make it.

So it means that one of these days we will see you here again? Maybe during vacation?

Why not. I call Boris (Pizza Prinzip owner) and will ask him if I can bake some bread in one of his ovens and then we start again.

Any final words?

First, I would like to thank Boris a lot for his help, he gave me everything and trusted me. That was top. You know I just the capabilities and he gave me all the materials. And even when I had a strange idea, he said “no worries, just do it”.

And second I would like to thank all the people from Bonn who bought my bread.

Epilogue

I was really impressed how Baptiste got stranded and found a way to make a living in a foreign city without any knowledge of the local language. And how people like Boris are helping in a practical way without knowing about the outcomes. These are the stories which make farmers’ markets unique places full of life.

A little link list:

• Market in Oberkassel
• Farmers’ market at the Frankenbad
• Pizza Prinzip who helped Baptiste with the wood fire oven
• The local mill Broicher Mühle for Baptiste’s bread
• The other markets in Bonn on this blog

The post How Corona “helped” me to start a business – Interview with Baptiste at the Oberkassel Farmers’ Market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

A long history

Since centuries the regional “capital” Gunzenhausen in Franconia (now part of Bavaria) has the right to hold a market. And since these days, people come from far to buy at the Thursday outdoor market.

Some people from the surrounding area even schedule their doctors or administrative appointments to allow them do their purchases at the market.

This is what I had been told by one market trader. Looking around, the story seemed reasonable as the quality of the produce looked good.

Gunzenhausen is part of Franconia a region in Bavaria, Germany. It is generally speaking an area known for its beer, wine and its cuisine, which in my opinion is one of the better German ones. All is still linked to the regional food production and people are putting some emphasis on food quality. And this region is particularly meat heavy with big portions and small prices.

Regional quality

The outdoor market stretches along the main road in the historical center of the city and has 20 or so stalls. It is a mix of producers and traders, but all with regional roots and often unique products. The offering covered basically everything: fruits & vegetables, dairy, cheese, meat, fish (also local sweet water ones), spices, flowers, bread, pastry.

It is just nice to see a market having regional, rather smaller producers who deliver quality into the city. The local white asparagus for example was in season and carefully screened by knowledgeable housewives.

Let me highlight a few examples to show why people are coming from far to this place.

Re-inventing selling eggs

The lady who sold eggs and pasta made it very clear and explained it in great length that her chicken were truly free range ones. They have stables that they can move from on meadow to the other to provide their animals good food. And I learned that there is no need to put eggs in the fridge, it does not prolong their shelf life.

The succession of the farm seem to be in good hands, as her 11 year old daughter had a few quails and selling their eggs. They went into our basket and made us happy in our home kitchen. Not so easy to crack though.

Direct sales is at the core of their business. Customers can come to their farm at any time, take what they need and put the money into a box. She never really experienced fraud. Nice to hear.

And she even went one step further and sharing a temperature controlled vending machine with a butcher. She is selling eggs, chicken soup, pasta and other items. It is placed next to a camping site and the business is doing well.

I am always amazed about the creativity of small producers when it comes to ideas on how to compete against big business.

A woman’s job and a man’s job

Sheep meat is my favorite one. But it is not as widespread in Germany as pork or chicken. Finding a shepherd who is selling her own meat is then kind of a jackpot as it is often imported from the Netherlands or New Zealand for example.

The lady running the stall enjoyed what she was doing: talking to customers, telling them about all aspects raising and butchering sheep. It was a pleasure to listen to her. And she explained that her family business is clearly divided: her husband does not like to so much to do deal with people, so he is raising the flock. Her strengths is dealing with customers, her husband’s to deal with the animals. Sounds almost like a cliché, doesn’t it?

Bringing wholewheat bread to a new level

The most surprising stall to me was the organic wholewheat baker. Why is that? Well, I am not a particular fan of wholewheat bread. To me, it often lacks a truly fine aroma and spreading butter often results into the slice break apart in more or less big crumbs making it unpleasant to eat.

But this bakery here owned by the Fischer family in Lichtenau offered a truly new experience. Their wholewheat baguette had such a great structure, aroma and taste, a bit different to a classic French baguette, but with a very pleasant own character. No wonder: the sourdough raises for 3 (three) days before it is being baked. And we know that time is probably the most important “ingredient” for a good bread. It was so different to my usual experience that almost jumped around like a kid at Christmas.

Several types of bread found the way into my shopping bag. Still they did not survive for a long time. For people who love bread, there is no way passing by without buying a loaf or a roll.

Two times

At the day of my visit I went two times to the market. First alone, to get the basics for this post and then with my family. They enjoyed the market as well, which does not happen every time I visit one. Especially since there were no typical street food vendors around. Still the local produce was good enough for them.

All in all: The Thursday outdoor market in Gunzenhausen is a great representation of a hub for regional quality products and certainly worth a little detour.

A little link list:

• The page on the market by the city of Gunzenhausen
• The Gunzenhausen market on German TV
• The website of the egg producer and their Facebook presence
• A directory with the contacts of the shepherds
• The website of the organic bakery

The post Coming from far – Market in Gunzenhausen, Franconia / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Some years ago, when I started writing about farmers’ markets, I was looking for like minded bloggers. To my surprise I did not find a lot.

Yes a lot of food or travel bloggers present individual markets, especially on those popular ones like Borough market in London, La Boqueria in Barcelona, Pike Place market in Seattle and the like. One of my favorite posts in this regard is a holistic architectural critique of the very impressive market hall in Rotterdam. And there are many markets out there who conduct a blog on their website.

But those who focus on a broader range of farmers markets from a culinary travel or passionate perspective are very limited. I found only a handful who publish in the English language, my search for German & French ones was without success.

So here are my farmers’ market heroes, really only a handful. They all have different backgrounds and motivations and they all gave me a rich diversity of inspirations for a long time.

And a little disclaimer to avoid confusion about the term “farmers’ market”. I have not found a good single term which can express the different types of markets which deal primarily with food, e.g. market halls, outdoor markets, indoor markets, weekly market, daily market etc. So the term farmers’ market helps to distinguish all those categories from let’s say stock markets.

Marjorie R. Williams – Focus on France

I will always be grateful to Marjorie because she educated me to become a better blogger. She once approached me for an interview and her questions made me think in a more systematic way on why I love markets so much. It helped me to write in a bit more personal way and hopefully in a better English.

Marjorie is from Massachusetts in the US but has a passion for markets in France, especially the Provence area and Paris. Her market blog is coming from a travel perspective and helps you to find and discover new spots to be experienced during your – culinary – vacation time.

She is for me the Paris market “authority” par excellence and made the big effort to create a very extensive listing of all the Paris markets – including craft and antique ones.There is no way that I would travel there without having consulted her blog.

She makes her living from travel writing and teaching.

Her links:

• Website: Majorie R. Williams
• Books: Markets of Paris (already 2nd edition) & Markets of Provence
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• Pinterest

Joan Lambert Bailey of Japanfarmersmarkets.com

Joan from the US has been working once as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Kazakhstan and I was a European Volunteer in Benin, West Africa, this is our connection beyond farmers’ markets. She is now living in Japan, focusing on food, its sustainable production and Japanese farmers’ markets  – all with a sense of community. And this can be felt in all her blog posts and Instagram pictures, it all revolves around great produce as a base for good food.

Especially in the Tokyo area she has visited many farmers’ markets held conversations and highlighted unique produce. Unfortunately I have never traveled to Japan despite having a great respect for its cuisine. Here Joan helps me to get a glimpse on the Japanese food & farmers’ market culture, which is different to the one in Germany where I live. Good to see this diversity on our planet.

Her links:

• Blog: Japan Farmers Markets
• Her writing website (business)
• Facebook
• Twitter: @JoanLBailey
• Instagram

Chiara Ugolini – Markets of Rome

Chiara is the market authority for Rome, Italy. No doubt about this one. I looks almost like she has talked to every single market vendor in Rome, really! This passion for the markets and their main actors can be felt in each post. It gives the markets a very human face and shows to every visitor that listening to vendors gives lots of lasting memories, maybe more lasting than those taken through the camera.

Chiara also gives guided tours on the markets in Rome. One day I will make it as well to listen to the stories of the markets and their people – and not forgetting to get a bite as well.

Beyond that she is a great net worker, if there will ever be an international club of farmers market bloggers, she will create it I guess

Her links:

• Blog Markets of Rome
• Facebook
• Twitter: @ugolinic
• Instagram
• Youtube
• AirbnB
• Mail

Karen Seiger – Markets of New York

Karen lives and runs in New York. Her blog is a comprehensive guide to the markets in this city, the purpose is to be a “resource for people who aspire to a higher quality of life and a sustainable lifestyle by supporting local businesses and buying directly from the people who make and grow the things we all need and want”. She goes to great length to list all the events which makes the markets even more attractive.

Her links:

• Website: Markets of New York
• Facebook
• Twitter
• Instagram
• Mail

Robyn Eckhardt – Eating Asia

I got to know Robyn via social media a long time ago. She has a passion for the Turkish cuisine, something I share since I lived there once for a few months. She published a more than well researched book on this subject.

Coming from the US, she is often living In Malaysia and/or Italy, but travels quite frequently with her photographing partner David Hagerman to do research for her books. Her blog is not purely focused on farmers’ markets in various countries (Turkey, south east Asia and beyond) but she provided me with lots of inspiration, also for taking pictures.

Unfortunately it has been a bit quiet on her blog lately, still I am hoping for better times.

Her links:

• Blog: Eating Asia
• Her book Istanbul & beyond
• Facebook
• Twitter: @EatingAsia
• Instagram: IstanbulAndBeyond
• Mail

Askan Schmeisser – Food & Farmers’ Markets

Well, thats me from Germany. And the only male on this list. I observe this as rather typical for food related blogs except for those on BBQ and its equipment. I was raised with good food, worked for sometime in agriculture and have therefore a strong respect for farmers. Years after “everybody” had created a blog I wanted to start one as well. There was not much left to fill in, but farmers’ markets was a subject close to my heart and kind of an empty field to my surprise. German is my native language, but I decided to write in English as many of the people I know do not speak German.

As I have the chance to travel a bit, I appreciate the variety of markets which I hope makes my blog quite diverse. And one day I will reach the level of my colleagues on this list

Beyond my main blog, I also run with a friend a website on the markets of Bonn, Germany where I live. My latest project is the Bonn foodie calendar. For a living I work in telecoms.

My links:

• Main Blog: Food & Farmers Markets – well you are reading it right now
• My other websites: on the markets in Bonn and the foodie calendar
• Twitter: @askans
• Facebook
• Instagram: askans_
• Pinterest
• Mastodon: @askans@bonn.social
• Mail

Other inspirational blogs on farmers’ markets

There are still other bloggers I appreciate a lot and who inspire me as well:

Food Perestroika of Florian Pinel, a French guy living In New York. He covers the cuisine of Eastern Europe and Central Asia, and at times farmers’ markets in a remarkably high level.

Traditonal Markets by Sara Gonzalez of the UK is more academic and activist when it come to the preservation of markets as important public places.

This Little Piggy by Megan Allan of South Africa  shows that they there is also a lively scene in this country, not only in the Cape area.

The post A handful – Farmers’ market bloggers around the world appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

The mix of languages & cultures

Lately I focused a lot on the markets of my city, Bonn. So it was about time to enlarge my horizon. Cologne is not far away and I already had a peek view on the market in the Nippes neighborhood. It is characterized by a lot of different cultures and does not seem to be too gentrified, a mix of people with lower and higher incomes. And so was the outdoor market.

When walking through the market to get an overview I could identify a few languages: German, Turkish, Arabic, Persian and some I could not identify. The whole buzz of the market was about this mix. Some fruit and vegetable stalls had huge piles of peppers, tomatoes, parsley and the like, indicating that purchases here were done in big quantities for larger families. “Abla (Turkish for sister) those are great” shouted one trader showing a whole strawberry tray definitely too large for a one or two person household. This ambiance exuded a more Mediterranean style, I felt almost like a tourist. Other traders had rather smaller quantities but larger variety of produce, indicating that they where catering for a different type of cuisine and smaller households.

Strangely enough I did not discover any halal butcher. All of the four or five ones looked more like the classic ones: one specialized in poultry (with lots of chicken stomachs, hearts etc. on stock – yummy), the others having rather traditional meats and sausages. There were queues at all stalls, a rather good sign.

The mix of purchasing power

For the first time I saw a stall selling cheeses, yoghurts and other milk products beyond their “best-before-date” resulting in low prices. The owner is selling these special products since a long time on several Cologne markets with success. To make the clientele at ease, he offers samples to prove that they are still good enough to eat. He knew all the facts about food waste and shook is head about its magnitude in Germany. He sources the products from a specialized wholesale dealer who saves tons of super market products from waste. When I look at all the hip food waste projects who want to change the world, I believe these dealers should get more credit and beautiful Instagram posts.

At the other side of the market there was another stall, with just the opposite approach: high quality cheeses from various countries, the stuff I love. Before joining the market the owner had observed the crowd for some time to find out if it fits his profile. He saw that the customers with the necessary interest and purchasing power were coming on Fridays and Saturdays and since then he has not regretted to be there. The stall is also present on the evening market at the Rudolph Platz which is rahter a street food market. There he also serves nice wine.

The mix of people, the mix of food

I very much enjoyed the diversity and buzz in the market, as said before I felt a bit like a tourist who wants to experience the local scene without other tourists around. Well, a lady I had a conversation with at the nice permanent coffe-shop in the market, told me that she still comes by from time to time despite having moved into another distant neighbourhood. I think this is a lively example of the attractiveness of the market.

When observing this energy loaden ambiance and diversity of people I was wondering if people here – traders and customers – showed a togetherness or were rather next to each other without much intermingling. Maybe it is a too overloaded point to look at on a market, despite living in times of too many xenophobic voices… I asked again the lady but there was no conclusion.

Yes there were stalls which had a clearly mixed clientele independent of the product sold, others not so much. The major coffee shop had a more hip style thus attracting its own segment of customers, whereas others enjoyed their filtered coffee in an improvised setting.

I felt like: yes, this is a modern city where diversity is at the core of being the normal way of life. And yes it has an impact on the diversity of the available food,

I discovered date syrup and whole dried peppers from Turkey on a string. Lovely. And I also had in my shopping bag some French raw milk butter, French & Dutch cheeses, pineapple from Costa Rica and spinach Börek. Happy shopper.

All in all: I truly liked the market in Cologne-Nippes, it is full of buzz and diversity. Very entertaining and with a wide range of products from lowe price to high quality to be discovered.

A little link list:

• Posts on this blog on other Cologne markets
• Wiki of the Cologne markets
• Operating hours (German)
• If you find a nice post in English on the market please send me the link

The post Together or next to each other? Daily market in Cologne-Nippes / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Tim Engelbrecht and his brother have founded Cookit 5 years ago and have stalls at three farmers’ markets: Cologne, Troisdorf and in Bonn where it all started. Their motto: one recipe, all ingredients, one bag.

We meet early Saturday morning before the crowds arrive. Tim had a short night as he had to work a bit longer than usual to prepare the Saturday sales. I am a bit nervous, as I conduct my first interview ever, but I know Tim and he is a fun guy, making it easy to me.

Interview

Askan: Hi Tim
Tim: Hi Askan

Askan: How long have you been at the Bonn market and what did you do beforehand?
Tim: We are now for almost 5 years at the market, we started with the asparagus season 2013. I went directly from university to the market.

Askan: You went directly from university to the market?
Tim: Already during my studies I worked on the Cookit concept. We opened the stall and then I finished my bachelor thesis. Somehow it just happened.

Askan: How would you describe your stall and what is being offered?
Tim: This is easy to explain: we always have six recipes to try. The customer chooses the recipe and gets a bag with all ingredients in the right amount needed. One can try it without having to buy extra ingredients or producing food waste. The underlying idea is to cook with regional ingredients.

Askan: Which recipes are the most popular with customers and which ones do you prefer?
Tim: Myself, I prefer hearty food, autumn & winter cooking is really mine, I love cabbage, cheese, everything which has a lot of power. With customers it depends on the weekday. During the week they prefer a light and quick cuisine, whereas at the weekend there is a tendency to cook more elaborate recipes.
Askan: So, the Sunday roast is still alive?
Tim: Yes indeed, meat based recipes sell more at the weekend.

Askan: When do you have to get up in the morning and how many hours do you make per week in average?
Tim: In average? Hmm … Let’s say it this way: we are lucky when we work less than 80 hours. The Bonn farmers’ market is unlike other markets open all day long. Everything you have to do besides selling, like filling up the cart, set it up and clean it you do outside the opening hours. I get up between five and six o’clock.

Askan: In all my conversations at various markets across Europe I got to know that it is very difficult to find successors for market stalls, due to the long and hard working hours.
Tim: Yes this is the case. We have the luxury that we start at the markets on Wednesday, we use the time until then to develop recipes.

Askan: What is fun in your work and what is not fun?
Tim: Hard to tell, this depends how the week is evolving. It is great to develop new recipes, to photograph and sell them afterwards. And what we all love is sales, on Saturdays, when the crowds come, the buzz never stops, and we have stress for 8 hours in a row, this is when we have fun. You realize that all your efforts work out and there is a real flow, this is fun. Less fun is of course when after 14 hours you have to clean up everything. Or the anti-day: you have prepared everything for the day and the local radio station announces a severe weather warning! You know instantly that in the evening you go back home with half of your prepared stuff.

Askan: How would you describe the Bonn farmers’ market?
Tim: I think it is a classic market, centrally located, full of buzz, a nice market. Meanwhile we have a nice diversity of choices. I also like that the market is managing the stretch between street food and classic offering. Here in the heart of the city, it is easy to get a good lunch at the market, and then buy some produce. It is a market I really love.

Askan:  What should be improved or changed?
Tim: Well, … I don’t know. The market as it is now is around since a while. One may appreciate this one way or the other. I like changes a lot, especially visible ones. This creates incentives for people who walk by every day to join their work places. I like the fact that there is now more street food available. I would appreciate some additional delicacies, as something new is very interesting for customers – and for us as well (laughing).

Askan: Who are your customers?
Tim: Regulars, absolutely. We have customers who purchase from us since 5 years, and they have not left out any single recipe. We have customers, whom we are handing over our recipe cards they have missed during their vacation. The majority of the customers come at least once a week. We are not the kind of stall, where you walk by and say: great lets try it. Most people come by several times, and when the moment is right for them, they buy.

Askan: Bonn is an international city (e.g. United Nations etc.), do you have many international customers?
Tim: Rarely. There some international students who practice their German with our recipe cards. Generally our concept focuses on the local, regional cuisine. This has to fit your own taste and cooking scheme, which varies depending where you are coming from. But we speak English, whereas my French I learned at school is rather limited (laughs).

Askan: Thanks for the interview Tim.
Tim: Pleasure, it was fun!

Link list & map

• The cookit website
• My post on cookit on this blog
• The interview in German
• The other stalls at the Bonn market

The post Sometimes hearty, sometimes quick – Interview with Tim from Cookit at the Bonn Farmers’ Market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

New in town

January 5th, 2018. The opening of a new market hall in Cologne, Germany. Renate & Ulrich Engels a couple living since a long time in the neighborhood took on the challenge to create something new in the area: “Markthalle Belgisches Viertel“. Several years of struggling to get all the permits and the renovation of an existing structure, finding the right people, “just” to make a dream come true. The couple does not belong to the classic start up generation from an age perspective and therefore I am stunned by their willingness to take on this risk. They transformed their passion for the markets in France and elsewhere into something beautiful.

The market hall caters rather for the neighborhood (“Veedel” as it is called in Cologne) then the “whole” city. It is a place for food, produce and meeting neighbors, producers and other people, not huge but big enough.

It is difficult to compare it with other market halls. Most of the other ones like the one in Frankfurt, Stuttgart, Budapest, Athens or Cork are well established, partly with generations of traders. The Rotterdam one has an incredible architecture, but still has to find its true character beyond being an attraction. The Markthalle 9 in Berlin is probably the one which comes closest, but the Markthalle Belgisches Viertel is more embedded in the surrounding culture and way of living.

Creating individuality

What surprised me when I entered the building: I felt immediately comfortable. Everything is nicely put together and makes you feel that the market had been around for a while and got its “patina“, the sign of real life. There is lots of room for individualism, each stall – and there are only 10 – is different, nothing is standardized. The baker lady has chosen a pale yellow, a painful decision for some people. The butcher shop opposite is very modern: lots of glass for transparency, no hiding of the crafted meat. The chairs and tables on the lower floor are all different, the tables as well. The bar of the restaurant has been decorated by a local graffiti artist – he has now free espresso until …

Challenges

Giving every trader his freedom to design his/her shop as desired, needed to be balanced with requirements of the other ones, not an easy task for the couple. And indeed the challenges were not only on the bureaucratic side – German construction laws have a reputation of their own – or dealing with craftsmen in times of construction boom. Finding the right shop owners was the toughest part according to Mr. Engels. As the concept is based on true individuals or characters who know their products, franchises were not aimed for. And not every entrepreneur has the capacity to serve the market six days a week for 10 hours daily. And indeed the guy who was suppose to take over the restaurant canceled it shortly before the opening. But improvisation turned out well: for the first days some pop restaurant folks from Cologne took over and served great street food (to my delight: no burgers, they have turned from my perspective to a plague in Germany).

Chatting with the traders

Mrs. & Mr.  Engels truly chose individuals with a passion for their products. It was fun chatting with each of them, they were so eager to explain their offering, providing samples and giving advice on how to use them. Each producer had its own style.

The baker lady with her down to earth shop explained in details her breads based on a 47 year old sourdough – mine being only a couple months old, I felt sort of young again. Coming from an area where I believe some of the best bread is being made, I was pleased with her rye bread.

I was happy to meet the wine maker who remembered me from another event. He was the one who told me about this market hall and is therefore responsible for this post. Unfortunately I was not in the mood to drink some wine. But he was also offering some fermented veggies from Mrs. Avci. She explained the process of fermentation as I wanted to understand a bit the hype around it as I observe it in some foodie segments outside Germany. We are used to sauerkraut but not much more. Try it and also her small batch Kombucha which she produces with a partner.

Mrs. Collin who runs the French cheese shop (nice selection) told me how she got into the business. She met her French husband at a university in France, but as she was the first to find a job, they moved to Germany and soon her husband, a former shepherd started the cheese business. She will continue running the market hall shop, whereas he is handling the one at the Carlsplatz market in Düsseldorf. Not an easy life. And I have to thank her eternally for connecting me to Mr. Engels. I learned a lot from him about running such a place.

The young hunter & butcher Lappen & Prengel was hyper this day. He was walking around in the hall looking at the people, serving and telling everybody about his meat and sausages with endless energy. He takes a lot of pride in the animals he hunts or sources and the transparency in the butchering process he tries to achieve. Visitors of the market hall can even the see the meat stored on hooks behind a glass window, the sausages are made in front of everybody – great approach to promote crafted meat. I bought for the first time some kidneys. I was surprised to see how many people suddenly became interested in it and one lady from Bavaria shared her recipe with me – gorgeous result. As the young owner butchers only a few animals per week you have to hurry to get them.

Lucy Barré who owns with her husband a French pastry shop did not have a fixed stall so far, which I hope will change soon. Despite being close to delivery she chose to be at the opening of the market hall. I am very grateful for that as she was selling true Galette des Rois (King cake). It is a puff pastry filled with an almond paste and somewhere hidden is a tiny porcelain figurine. The person who discovers it in his piece of the cake becomes the king of the day and gets a golden paper crown. I bought one as my childhood memories popped up, unfortunately I did not become the king when we ate it. Anyway, Mrs. Barré might be a mother by now, I wish her and her child all the best.

Food place

No market hall nowadays without a food place. The folks from Dreigang (three course in German) who were only here as a stand in, usually work as a supper club. They loved the open kitchen as they prefer to work in direct contact with the customers. I took advantage of it. My detailed questions about the business were appreciated (or tolerated?) and I learned not only how to produce rosemary syrup but also about the advantages of such a business being different to running a restaurant.

Learning curve

With all the discussions I had, especially with Mr. Engels, I gained a lot of respect on what it means to set up and run the market, the individual shops. And what it means to orchestrate the unbelievable magnitude of details to make it a success for the customers, the traders and the owners. It is a steep learning curve for everybody. I am very curious on how the market hall will develop, which traders will sustain the long working hours and how this place will develop to the place to meet your neighbors. There is enough space, even for events to bring people together.

All in all: Go for the Markthalle Belgisches Viertel in Cologne, it is a place where you will feel comfortable, get to know the neighborhood and eat & buy get great products as well.

A little link list (mostly in German):

• The official website
• The market hall on Facebook
• The hunter & butcher Lappen & Prengel
• The French pastry shop
• The bakery
• The hip guys from the IMI winery
• The fermented vegetables producer
• French cheese shop
• The pop-up restaurant folks
• A short report on TV (min 4:00)
• My other posts on markets in Cologne

Most producers have also a Facebook presence.

The post Learning curve – Markthalle Belgisches Viertel, Cologne / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Scroll down for the map including directions

What I still remember is the cheese, the wood oven bread and the horse meat sausages – all from the region of Saxony – I had to buy it.

A bit of walking

It was the end of the summer school vacation. It was warm but gray, the ambiance at the market very relaxed. The vendors had time to talk and nobody seemed to be in a hurry.

The Sachsenmarkt in Dresden is not a small one I have to say. Two parallel lanes of about 100 meters separated by grass and rows of trees for picnic (is it allowed?), each lane with two rows of stalls – officially around 160 – facing each other. I had to do a bit of walking to get a glimpse of the wide choice.

A Westerner meets the East

As somebody who grew up in Western Germany my notion of Eastern Germany is rather limited, nothing to be proud of. When thinking of agricultural production in the East, I always have the big state farms in mind. And looking at the fields while traveling, they looked much larger than the ones in my area. So I was pleasantly surprised to see so many small producers at the market.

The whole market has a strong focus on regional products, also something I am not used too. “International” products were rare. Yes, the fish was not from the area, a Turkish stall served Mediterranean delicacies, the flowers probably came from the Netherlands and the Hungarian stall was run by real Hungarians. But that’s about it I guess. The rest was showing what the region has to offer.

Cheese, bread & horse meat

I do not consider Germany as a cheese country, the market seems dominated by large scale dairies which produce surprisingly low quality or boring stuff. France, Italy & the Netherlands are still the true cheese heaven to me.

The Sachsenmarkt surprised me. I guess at least 6 stalls with regional artisan cheeses, the highest density I have ever seen at a German market. Most of it was organic, from cow milk but also a lot from goat milk – I do not remember sheep milk. The choice was plentiful: from fresh cheeses to more mature ones up to a year old; with different ingredients and spices – always a winner: fenugreek; but also with funny names: Gute-Laune-Käse (jolly mood cheese) – did not try this one, I was already fine. The only thing I really missed were truly old cheeses. I just love the “yellow gold” which is 3 years old or so, the aroma is so concentrated and overwhelming. Unfortunately these artisans do not have enough space to produce it and maybe customers would not like to pay the necessary premium.

Another attraction was the baker who produced on site in a wood fire oven. People were queuing to get their share. He does not mind making the effort to bring his mobile oven to the markets and living a life where you have to get up early to produce real bread. He loves his craft and does not want to stop even though it is hard to find apprentices for his business. I guess working in a bread factory means having a more socially compatible schedule. He had a large variety of breads, I bought three smaller ones: a potato bread, one with sprouts and a regular sourdough one. They were tasty.

Three stalls had horse meat and sausages. I once had in Italy my very first horse steak tartar. It is decades ago and I am still chasing this taste. These stalls brought me closer to it and I bought a few sausages. One of them was run by one of the few remaining horse meat butchers in the region, the old generation does not seem to find successors. The clientèle is also rather limited but thankfully he still continues his job. Of course he sells also other meats to make a living.

BBQ on a bicycle

What a surprise! At the end of the market I found something I saw once: a charcoal grill for Bratwurst on a bicycle! Three years ago I had a stop over in Chemnitz at the market roughly one hour drive from Dresden. I saw the same bike, and yes the guy told me that it was him, the one from Chemnitz. The world is a small planet! But I don’t think that he was cycling the whole distance.

Learn the difference between Dresden and Leipzig

Most of the vendors cater for several markets. As regional and organic food is not on the budget side, they are looking for larger cities with purchasing power. Leipzig, the largest city in the state of Saxony is not far away from Dresden, its capital. Space for a rivalry. And yes, I learned my lesson from a lady selling bread; the message was very clear: Leipzig people are grumpy, they complain too much, they are not laid back. You go there only for the money not for the fun. Dresden people are just the opposite: friendly and gemütlich! They always have time for a chat and are patient. I can confirm the latter for this market: once I started a conversation with any vendor he did not end until I continued my walk, while real customers waited patiently for their turn.

Now I have to check out the Leipzig markets.

All in all: A display of Saxony produces, go for it if you want to get to know the regional bounty – only on Fridays.

A little link list:

• Farmers’ markets in Dresden (German)
• Marktgilde, the company managing the Sachsenmarkt amongst many others in Germany

The post Cheese, bread & horse meat – Sachsenmarkt in Dresden / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

In my blog a wide range farmers’ markets, market halls and the like have been described.

Meat

On my inward journey to the market I made a stop at the butcher Wiskirchen, where there is always a long queue waiting for service. Queues are not my cup of tea but today I decided to stay in line. I asked a couple people ahead of me why they were queuing but did not get a satisfying answer. When it was my turn the butcher explained: “well, we are just working too slow”. The laughs were all around. He is sourcing his meat and sausages from several producers with trustworthy quality he knows since a long time. My eyes caught a whole rabbit, something I always have been interested in but was always to shy to buy. This was my chance and together with a glass of rillettes it got into my bag.

As I was too lazy to find uncomplicated rabbit recipes, I just took the whole animal, fried it a bit on all sides, added a bit of thyme and rosemary and then put it into the oven at 80°C for a three hours, as I like low temperature cooking a lot. After having eaten the rabbit, I will be queuing again: the quality of the meat was really great.

Having the chance to buy a whole rabbit made me realize that nowadays the way meat is being presented and sold (in supermarkets) creates a disconnection to the fact that an animal had to be raised and killed to fill our stomachs. Instead it rather looks like something which could come out of a factory like any other consumer good. I guess this is a good entry point for artificial meat.

Vegetables

I moved on to one of the vegetable & fruit sellers, Mr. Raditzkys stall. His family enterprise sells on several Bonn markets and they have been featured in local newspapers and TV. The produce is sourced from the wholesale market in Cologne. I needed tomatoes and they had only one variety: the “Tasty Tom” ones. The sales lady convinced me that they were honoring their name, so I was willing to pay the premium even though it is was not the right season for great tomatoes.

I needed some salad, and here I have a favorite trader Mr. Henschke who is a producer himself as well and adds from other sources when necessary. I once bought some great Italian radicchio and since then he is the guy. He did not have this original one anymore (wrong season?), still he got me as a customer, and in addition the new harvest potatoes from Cyprus went into my shopping bag. They ended as roasted potatoes next to the rabbit.

Bread

Bread is something I cannot live without. Having lived a great portion of my life in the Würzburg area in Germany, where great bread is being produced, I am quite picky about it. So far in the Bonn area, I have never found the “right” one and I am always on the hunt for it. I had never bough a bread from the organic bakery “Tillmann” at the market, so I had to give it a try. And I found a keeper! Now there is one more reason to make the trip to the Bad Godesberg market.

Cheese

At the market it is very easy for me to stretch my budget to the very limit and to have too much food in the fridge. The choice is just so tempting. With a little discipline I allowed myself one more purchase at the Cilinaria Espania stall, which sells cheeses and antipasti with a Spanish touch. Mr. Linnemann refines cream cheese and other ones to his tasting with different spices, dried tomatoes and other condiments. Those dips are hard to resist. As we know each other a bit, we had our conversation, also about his quest to find a space at the main market in Bonn, where he could also sell some street food, which is not permitted at the current spot. I hope he will be successful, it will be an enrichment. He is a good sales person, very generous in giving samples, alway chatting and recommending new creations. This charm makes you overlook your budget and enjoy the good food side of life. Together with the ciabatta type of bread he sells, it was easy to overcome the time until the rabbit left the oven.

Experience

In an older post I described the market as a relaxed one. I have to add that it is a welcoming one as well, who is able to offer great quality and discoveries. And the traders are certainly a bunch of people to feel comfortable with. Shopping here brought smiles into the kitchen.

A little link list:

• My post on the Bad Godesberg market
• The Bad Godesberg market traders

The post Discoveries – Shopping at the farmers’ market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Scroll down to the end for the map

Saturday at the Beuel market is a great day to meet your neighbors, friends and the like for a coffee and do your quality shopping at the same time.

The produce

The market has only 8 stalls covering meat & sausages, flowers, fruit & vegetable (organic & regular) and some street food: a coffee stall and a chicken roaster. A good cheese & milk product stall is missing, then things would be perfect. The traders are more of the jolly kind, helping their customers to make the right choice. Me personally I like a lot the owner of the organic stall who is very willing to share his knowledge as he is a farmer himself. I once had a long conversation over potatoes, as they are one of my favorites. The poultry guy is certainly the most jolly one of the pack. His assistant and him are also selling game meat from the nearby Eifel region. The game bratwurst is truly beautiful with a great aroma.

Community building

As the square where the stalls are located is big enough, it is very easy to see and to be seen. And to bring along baby strollers which makes it very family friendly. The mobile coffee shop is then the communication center on the market day. The stall has newspapers laying out, a good choice of Italian coffee specialties and pastries. There is also hot chocolate for the kids, who also can bike and run around without too much to fear. This relaxed ambiance creates the right opportunity to stay a little longer and chat. Certainly a good chance for community building.

A bit of history

This market is approximately just a couple decades old. The story says the Beuel people did not want to cross the Rhine river to shop at the Bonn city center market. At the time the reputation of that market wasn’t good. Therefore a quality market was on the wish list of the citizens. Even though I believe that the Bonn market is better than it’s reputation, the Beuel market is a great asset for the city. And for the local producers and traders it is also a nice business opportunity. At least the traders do not change that often.

All in all: a good combination of quality produce and a great place to meet your neighbors and friends

A little link list:

• Other markets in Bonn on this site
• Listing of all the stalls at the market

The post Cozy – Beuel market, Bonn / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.