Bright autumn sun. Vivid colors. No need to hurry. A chat over a coffee with a stranger. Watching people doing their purchases at the market. This is the good side of life.

This is what can happen to you at the market on the Place du Marché des Capucins. The market is also known as Marché de Noailles. This square is framed by nice, older apartment buildings and small shops – not yet gentrified. A few trees add shade and colour. Maybe dogs will like them as well.

At one of the cafés overlooking the market I found an empty chair next to a guy. I ordered my coffee and soon we started chatting. He was of Algerian origin like many people around. He explained me a little bit the area and the people living here. A lot of people come from Algeria, Morocco, Senegal and other countries. And the vendors have different backgrounds, amongst them also one Italian, which I did not expect – always nice to get your own cliches challenged. I also learned something about the pecking order amongst the people based on their origin. Everywhere the same story, always somebody else to look down at.

Every couple minutes a friend of his walked by, stopped, shook hands, exchanged a few words. I had the feeling to get to know the whole neighbourhood during two glasses of coffee. Should do this more often.

The market is fully focused on vegetables and fruits. The shops around take care of fish, bread, meat and the other daily needs. The crowd visiting the market seems to come mainly from the neighbourhood, only very few tourists walked by (travel bloggers?).

The stalls have a very lush, colourful presentation of the produce. Together with the light in Marseille it almost gives an impression of a garden of Eden. As the buyers do not belong to the rich crowd, many products are sold at low prices – a 1€ per kilogram sign is to find quite often. In all the talks I had, the weak economy was a topic, explaining the prices at the market quite well. Still there was no bulk selling as such. Only one vendor sold it by the prepared bowl which helps to make fast purchases. Somehow it is like packed goods, just without the plastic.

The shops around the market square were worth a visit as well. They give almost the impression of an indoor market section. The offer of the fishmongers could certainly compete with the one of the fish market at the old port. Beautiful display. The baker where had a distinct Arabic influence in his products. I chose a sesame seed topped flat bread, yummy. So there is no worries to find good food at a budget.

All in all: A great place to relax and enjoy a very interesting mixed crowd without having to spend too many bucks

A little link list:

• The markets of Marseille by marvellous-provence.com
• A feast for the eyes by stay.com

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This fish market is the perfect equivalent to a “true” farmer’s market from a fisherman’s perspective. The fishermen come with their boats directly into the old port (Vieux Port) of Marseille, set up their stalls on the quay and start selling  the catch of the day. And only real fishermen with their own local catch are allowed to do so. It seems to be fairly regulated.

And the old port of Marseille (2nd largest city in France) is an integral part of the old town. In this U-shape basin many sailing boats are anchoring and surrounded by old buildings which are still partly apartments with real “indigenous” people. The setting has quite some charm which can also be enjoyed in the bars and restaurants overlooking the port.

But lets come back to the market. There are maybe a dozen stalls or so. Each one has a couple small basins, partly filled with water, where the fish is being displayed. And not only fish, there are mussels, wild oysters, octopus amongst others. The offer is not really cooled by ice or so, but umbrellas protect them a little bit from the intensive sun.

The fishermen or their family members are selling the fish directly to – mainly – locals. Tourists (like me) are taking pictures and making aahs & oohs which does not seem to disturb the vendors. As it might be unpractical to buy fresh fish as a tourist, there is still opportunity to try oysters when available. Unlike in some other countries, the vendors open up the oysters on site, which makes them the perfect snack before going for lunch. The ones I had the chance to try were so called wild oysters. They were collected along the way by the brother of the lady selling and opening them for me. Taste wise they were fine, but I still prefer those from the Bretagne region.

And most of the buyers seem to be local regulars. Some of them know exactly at which hour to come to catch real fresh fish of high quality. And this might not be the earliest hour of the day. Even though I saw mainly older people buying, I was told that it is rather a cross generational affair.

One stall had a swordfish displayed. It was quite a mighty fish! It sold in slices , steak size, similar to a tuna steak. As the back bone was strong the vendor had to use saw and knife to cut it. A rather impressive and raw experience.

Seeing living fish barely covered by some water led to some discussions between visitors and vendors. The fisherman’s response to the comments was simple: I do what is being done to cattle, poultry, pork etc. Two different ways of perspective on life, not necessarily compatible I guess.

All in all: A gem for those who love to buy local from real fishermen or look at what the (local) sea offers to eat

A little link list:

• Post with lots & lots of pictures from Third Eye Mom
• A post with a little video and some restaurant tips from Solo Travel Girl
• Nice overview on the markets in Marseille by marvellous-provence.com

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