Bonn might be still known by some as the former capital of Germany. Maybe it is also known as the city where Ludwig van Beethoven was born and lived for quite some time of his life. The city has 9 different fresh food outdoor markets, mostly smaller ones.

The organic market in front of the Bonn minster (cathedral) in the centre of the city, is a very small one: only 5 stalls sell their produce. What can a market do with only 5 stalls? Well more than it appears at first sight. And the vendors, who are the producers as well, are very busy. Most of the time customers have  to queue a bit.

And what are the customers queueing for?

Well there is one stall with very good cheese from goats and cow milk mainly, I especially like the fresh goat cheese, it has a true flavour without being too intense – good to be used for gratins, salads and other recipes. The lady producing all this has a farm in the Eifel, a low mountain range with not so fertile soils. She raises with her family goats, cows and chicken for eggs. At times, she adds some produces from other organic farmers like sheep cheese or honey and wine, but 80% remains her own production. Unfortunately it does not make sense for her to produce aged cheese, as she does not have enough milk for the current demand and because prices for aged cheese are not high enough. She serves 3 different markets along the week.

The butcher produces also most of his meat and sausages, some is imported to complement the choice. The offering is very large: poultry, pork, beef and lamb. He is so successful that he serves 11 different markets in the wider area. Having been at this market for more than 15 years, he has seen the children of customers starting doing their purchases here as well.

Of course there are also a couple vegetable and fruit stalls. The farmer Bursch one serves 12 different market locations and has a very wide offering. Towards the colder seasons the share of own products decreases and organic imports become more prominent. At the farm there is also a kitchen which produces on preserves like potato soups, tomato ragout, pickles etc. This gives the stall a very artisan flair.

And last not least there is an organic bakery which has a big smiley as a brand. The offering covers breads and pastry.

The market is managed by a company called Agrarkonzept, which manages it on behalf of the city of Bonn. The company is also responsible for other organic outdoor markets in the Cologne & Bonn area. For a fee per market day, the vendors get space & power etc. for their carts & stalls. Having management companies to deal with outdoor markets on behalf of the localities is a common concept in Germany, the largest one being probably Deutsche Marktgilde. It believes that outdoor markets contribute significantly to the attractiveness of city centres.

All in all: A very small market but very popular with locals. Range of offering is larger than expected.

A little link list (mostly in German):

• The company managing the Bonn organic market Agrarkonzept – not only in Bonn
• The Ulmenhof selling cheese & eggs
• The website of the baker DLS
• The vegetable and preserve producer Biohof Bursch
• The other vegetable producer Biobauer Palm

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The Naschmarkt in Vienna, the capital of Austria (old joke: not the country with the kangaroos) is a market with origins in the 16th century. It is a fairly huge one with permanent stalls serving daily needs as well as the ones of more ambitious cooks in the middle of the city.

The choices of vegetables, fruit and cheeses etc. does not only encompass Austrian produce but offers also those from distant countries. And their presentation is all about celebrating food. It is difficult to leave the place without  having eaten something, especially since there are quite a few stalls which have been transformed into little restaurants. Those ones give a nice choice of local and foreign cuisines. And it is a place to taste Austrian wine as well. As the produce stalls close down in the evening, these restaurants become real busy catwalks

The Naschmarkt is not only international when it comes to the produce, but also the vendors come from different countries, often from Turkey thus giving almost a melting pot flair. It is also a market full of discoveries: the selection of spices is tremendous, a lot of bakery goods are probably not known outside the country. The cheese selection is surpasses certainly the one of any supermarket, and there is meat parts available which is not common, like rumen etc. I liked a lot the Wandererschnitte – (hikers’ fruit bar) which is a pressed cake consisting of 13 ingredients, mainly dried fruit and nuts. It is something which can easily be transported back home.

Looking at this huge market as a whole, it is a probably one of the few  which is not only alive during the day, but also has a night life side, thus making money almost around the clock.

To my surprise this market is rarely mentioned in best of lists.

All in all: The Naschmarkt is a true celebration of food, definitely worth a detour

A little link list:

• The official website in English
• A post with lots of pictures from epicures
• On tripadvisor
• Naschmarkt by night
• Wandererschnitte – the nice hikers’ fruit bar

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MEAT!

FISH!

This is what you get to see in abundance, and only this, when you enter the central market hall (Dimotiki Agora) on Athina street in downtown Athens.

This rectangular central market hall is organized in a sort of layers. On the outside of the building there are many small shops of all kinds. Coming inside you will see only butchers when walking one round in the building. Then heading towards the heart of the building there is only fish vendors. This offering only focused on meat (beef, chicken, sheep, rabbit etc.) and fish is rather unique and reminds more of a wholesale market.

The meat alley has one butcher next to the other with stands all looking alike. Each stand has a glass structure which is cooling room and show room alike. And there is only meat cuts, no sausages or further processed meat besides minced meat. And it is possible to buy all parts of the animals, including feet, heads, intestines, rumina etc. Many of the butchers (male only) have a big wooden bloc in front where they cut the meat in front of the buyer. All the friendly vendors are dressed in a white apron. And when there are no customers around they chat and laugh with each other, giving a sense of community.

In the centre of the market hall are the fish mongers. In contrast to the butchers they do not all wear white clothes. The fish variety is large but not overwhelming , some seafood is available as well. coming from a country further up north, it is always impressive to see squid and octopus as well. This section was quite louder than the meat alley, is fish more inspiring?

On the outside of the building there is a collection of smaller shops with a large variety of offerings: bakery, coffee roasters, dried fruit & nuts, cheese (feta), household tools etc. There it is easier as a tourist to find something to bring home.

All in all: a market hall which caters for daily needs not for tourists. A feast for meat and fish lovers, definitely worth seeing

A little link list:

• Nice blog article with lush pictures from Matt Barrett’s Athens survival guide

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