This market is huge, really huge – and busy.

Intro

The Maastricht treaty is probably what makes this city sound so familiar. But it has more to offer, especially style and good shopping opportunities in a very nice historic setting. The Friday market adds its share to enhance the shopping experience. And it is very large, according to official sources up to 300 stalls. This alone is impressive. I am not sure, but I guess the produce and food section represents more than half of all these stalls, the other ones were more into clothes, textiles, bike spare parts and equipment etc.

What was impressive?

This Friday market exudes a real buzz. Even in the earlier hours people queued at some stalls for their shopping. The vendors are very communicative in many languages (Dutch, English, German & French) to attract their clientele and serve them with high efficiency. The supply never seems to end. All produce, be it fruits, vegetables, meat, fish etc.  are piled and busy hands make sure that those piles never get to small to impress potential buyers.

In the meat and fish section, it seemed that there is a zero waste policy. All parts of the animals were being sold. You will find minor fish cuts to make a fish soup of fish stock. I am not sure what chicken feet are good for, but there certainly will be a recipe somewhere in this city.

The fish stalls are something worth visiting. First there are plenty of them, each with a wide choice. Most of them are clustered at the Northern side of the market making comparisons very easy. Not being familiar enough with fish I would not be able to name them, but it is certainly overwhelming to see the different shapes and colours. It seemed that most come from the North Sea. I even found oysters, which always makes me happy. The further offering consisted also of smoked fish and street food, often seafood in a batter and then fried. I am not sure how one chooses her favourite fish stall, but all looked great.

The meat stalls were selling mainly chicken and some pork as well as convenience food. Chicken was rarely sold as a whole but each butcher seemed to have a big pile of each of the chicken parts: breast, wings, drumsticks, heart, feet, you name it. Next to those chicken specialists who reminded of wholesale business, there were more traditional butchers with a larger variety of animals and often meals for taking home like goulash etc. Lately I seem to suddenly “discover” rabbit on each market, this market not being an exception. The whole rabbit I saw came from France (see picture gallery). The sausage choice was rather limited comparing to what one will encounter in Germany.

When in the Netherlands it is a must to buy some cheese – Gouda is certainly the most known one, still the country has more to offer. Strangely enough, I saw only a few stalls in comparison to the meat & fish ones and they were distributed across the market. One of the characteristics of Dutch cheese is that it is being sold in different maturity groups, from young to very old. The older the cheese the more concentrated is the flavour, the young ones are very mild. I got a few: an old gouda (approx. 18 months, one with cumin, a young cheese and a Limburger (the one with distinct odour). Happiness back home!

The Netherlands are a hub of the global flower trade. Alsmeer is the location of the world’s largest trading centre for flowers and plants. Maastricht market makes a show case out of it. Many stalls offer flowers, bouquets and more in all kinds of colours. Enough to make the right choice for a loved one.

The fruit & vegetable stalls were a plenty as well. They looked like wholesale business going retail. Boxes and boxes full of what the greenhouses, fields and orchards across the planet are able to offer in large quantities. The prices were low, which also explains why so many people were doing their purchases here.

Besides all the produce, many street food stalls serve the market: fish & chips, all kinds of Asian ones, filled donuts and much more. Trying a mixed seafood platter – with batter and fried, accompanied  by a remoulade was rather disappointing. The donut filled with apple was a winner.

By the way: the Maastricht Friday market has been awarded best one in the Netherlands in 2014.

What was less impressive?

Despite the wide choice, especially when it comes to fish, this market offers rather commodities than specialties or gourmet stuff. Being familiar with European markets, there will be no real surprise. To a certain extent it is a huge outdoor supermarket – for feeding people in an affordable manner it is the place to be.

Some of the street food would have deserved a more sophisticated twist, it would make them truly unique. This is especially valid for the fish food.

But the market still fascinates me, my thoughts are coming back to all what I saw. There is some attraction I cannot explain. Probably it is the impressive buzz at the market, it gives me a great incentive to cook more often with truly fresh stuff.

All in all: A market which is attractive because of its sheer size and buzz. The large choice and quantity of fish is remarkable.

A little link list:

• The official site of the city with market information
• A small but nice post with beautiful pictures from the Crème fraîche blog
• More pictures on my photo site

The post The big one – Maastricht Friday market / Netherlands appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Prologue

Me: “May I take a picture of your stall?”

Vendor: “What is it for?”

Me: “I love markets so I take pictures”

Vendor: “Ok, but don’t publish them on the Internet”

Me: “I want to publish them on my blog”

Vendor with a smile: “Ok, but only if you write nicely about us”

So do I write nicely in this post? Well, I like food markets and I try to rather understand why they are as they are. Some are exciting, some are probably just deeply rooted in their community. And so is the Saturday market in Porz.

The setting

Porz, is a city district of Cologne, latter being  famous for its cathedral, Kölsch beer and of course carnival. It is an industrial city, neat, but not a tourist attraction. I found quite many vegetable and fruits shops in the city centre mainly managed by people of Turkish background. The Saturday market seems to find its niche despite similar offerings.

There are about a dozen stalls, some selling clothes, but the majority selling produce. It is a little bit squeezed in between rails, a pedestrian zone and a parking garage. Not the nicest surroundings, but the humor of the vendors and some of the clientele made up for it.

So why are people coming?

Well, it really looked like that the customers and the vendors knew each other.

A customer got a credit from his vendor as he would come back as usual in 2 to 3 weeks and pay without being reminded.

One lady is coming every week since 1985 at the very large fruit and vegetable stall. Her and the vendor were joking the whole time about silly things, a joy to watch. The reason why the lady comes every week is the good relationship to the vendor but also his merchandise which offers superior quality to a supermarket. The produce just stays fresh much longer she claimed. Even though the source was the wholesale market, the market vendor has then the role to chose the best produce there.

What about the young generation?

As on most open markets I visited, the customers are rather middle aged or older. Not too many twenty-something around. A vendor claimed that the young generation does not know how to cook anymore, therefore not having the urge to buy fresh produce. Another one stated that in today’s families both parents have to work to make a living, therefore making it difficult to visit the open market, especially during the week. I don’t know if those are realistic explanations… Probably it would be interesting to experiment a bit more on how to attract a younger customer base.

This leads to the question:

What to find on this market?

Lots of eggs, really lots of eggs. At least 3 stall had a large selection of chicken eggs: small, large, jumbo, brown, white, you name it.

One butcher (the friendly one in the picture gallery) had a stall which was really shiny, pretty and modern, thus making all the sausages, meats and so on very appetizing. He does not own an own shop, but serves several markets. Another butcher had rabbit legs, something I do not see everywhere. The lady selling knew very much about the Mediterranean and German style of cooking them, so must be the clientele then.

The vegetable & fruit stall mentioned above had an incredible variety of produce spread over probably 10 meter or so. I have no idea how somebody can manage that many produce from a business perspective. Well he does the job since decades in second generation, that might explain it.

Only one farmer was present a the market, a fairly old guy selling organic produce more adapted to the season: potatoes, beets, carrots and the like.

Besides this offering: honey, vodka-honey-liquor, flowers and baking good where available as well.

The cheese selection was noteworthy, with fairly high quality of French cheeses and a nice selection of German ones. Something not be found easily even in supermarkets.

All in all: A small market with vendors and clients who know each other and have humor, giving a sense of community.

A little link list:

• Porz on Wikipedia

The post Porz Saturday market, Cologne / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Don’t go there, they will rip you off because they want to make a quick buck with lower quality products. Take care of your wallet, it might get pick pocketed.

Well those were the advices I got, but I did not listen. And it was to my advantage.

The Nová Tržnica (market hall) in Bratislava is a fairly large concrete building dating from the socialist area (1981). On the ground floor there is mainly stalls for produce and a few pubs, whereas upstairs it looks a bit more like a mall without the glittery part. The inside architecture shows concrete, large pipes, large stairs as well as large windows which try to create a grand ambiance. This grand ambiance was contrasted by the not so large stalls with vendors dealing in retail, not in wholesale. And the bright colours of some stalls, pipes etc. created some nice contrast.

Unfortunately it was a bit late when I had the chance to tour the market hall. The market serves local people rather than tourists with daily food, drinks and a few other items. Pubs, little restaurants are to be found on both floors all with a basic charm which may be called authentic.

Besides fruits, vegetables, flowers there is also local cheeses & meats available. In Slovakia smoked cheeses are quite common and so they are to be found here as well, often as string cheese. And it is not only cow milk which is being used, but also sheep or goat milk. Bryndza a creamy sheep milk cheese, available as well, serves as the main ingredient of Bryndzové halušky a national Slovak dish. Besides Bryndza it consists of gnocchi like potato dumplings and bacon.

The dried sausages I bought were quite hearty and nicely spiced, a winner. The smoked pork belly fat should have been worth a trial as well.

A unique stall was the one which filled three different type of wines from tap into all kinds of bottles, plastic and other ones. Good recycling of bottles I guess.

All in all: as daytripper.sk put it: it is a good place to look for if you do not need glamour and hipness.

A little link list:

• Pictures of the building in Wikipedia Commons
• Basic information about the markets in Bratislava from bratislava.info
• A post from daytripper.sk which characterizes the market very well

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When in Zagreb I like to stay in Hotel Dubrovnik. It is not the most fantastic hotel, but it’s location is hard to beat: in the very heart of Zagreb, where people have coffee outside even in winter time when there is snow. Great! It is also located next to some spots I like for my well being: the Pinguin fast food sandwich bar (they do not talk a lot, but they do a great job), the great ice cream parlour Vincek, and at last the micro brewery Pivnica Medvedgrad after having visited the Upper Town and listened to some free (!) live music outdoors at the so called Strossmayer Promenade. It is almost a ritual when I have time in Zagreb.

Hotel Dubrovnik has another advantage: before the work day starts you just walk about 100 meters across the main square, climb up the stairs and you are welcomed by the great Dolac market! It is a fairly big square surrounded by buildings of mixed architectural styles and a fish market. The Zagreb Cathedral is overlooking the market from a distance, also a way to assure fair trade.

From my point of view Zagreb which has lots of architecture from the Austro-Hungarian empire shows a nice mix of Mediterranean & Eastern European lifestyles. And the market reflects this to a certain degree. It is a very well “disciplined market”: the tables for the stalls are nicely standardized including their umbrellas, there is a section with small permanent stalls without shades which come with their own refrigeration. And in the evenings everything is properly put together and piled up.

And when the vendors have prepared their part in the morning, the market offers all its splendour: fruit & vegetables in abundance! It is a feast for the eyes and the locals come here in plenty. Even in winter time the merchants sell fresh produce (more cabbage and alike) while standing in the snow! That is Mediterranean feeling even when it is cold. Besides all the fresh produce there is also honey, cheese etc. But the fruit and vegetables are dominating.

A good place to observe the scenery are the cafes on the Eastern side of the market where you may sit outside and have a coffee or a Rakija.

All in all: Dolac market combines Mediterranean & Eastern European savoir vivre and is worth more than one visit.

A little link list:

• A blog post with great descriptive pictures from Travel & Lifestyle Diaries – highly recommended!
• Frank about Croatia with a post on Dolac market
• Dolac market on trip advisor

The post Dolac market in Zagreb / Croatia – Outdoors even in winter time appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

The Holešovice market in Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic is basically a large area covered by different halls. The hall 22 is the one we are looking for, as it is the one which is the closest to a farmers’ market. The other halls contain partly shops, flea markets and basically all sorts of stuff you might need or not in your daily life.

When I entered hall 22 at in the later afternoon, it was fairly empty, some stalls were already closed. Still enough to get an impression. The hall in itself is fairly large, quite larger than e.g. the Eastern Market in Washington DC. What is there to be found: vegetables of all sorts in rather large quantities if we add up all the stands. Fruit as well. Flowers, herbs were also available. But there was not so much meat, fish or cheese stands. Most of the produce seem to come from the Czech Republic, but I also saw produce from other Eastern European countries.

There were a few things which caught my eyes: the tons of banners across the hall, the one stand which sold whole sunflower seed heads, and a stand which had really nice looking dried sausages in really dark colors. I still do not know why I did not buy some. Maybe because the market was not very lively at the time, I did not feel so much the urge to buy something, despite the friendly sausage vendor.

All in all: Caters for daily life with a large selection of goods in a rather unusual setting.

A little link list:

• The official website of the market – here the English version
• Brief description on markets in Prague and how to get there from prague.tv
• A post on the market including its history from expats.cz
• A nice post on the rise of the Czech farmers’ markets by Radio Prague

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It was a rainy day. A pity for the very very touristy but still very pleasant town of Provincetown. The whole town reminds me of a possible American equivalent of a European medieval one like Rothenburg ob der Tauber, which could have been invented for tourists, just far more liberal.

By accident we tumbled upon the farmers market which stretched along the road next to the beautiful Town Hall. There were probably not more than a dozen stands and despite the rain with quite a few buyers.

Vegetables and fruits were dominant, but meat (beef, pork, lamb & chicken) out of Vermont was also available from a friendly vendor. As a highlight there was a guy who demonstrated spinning of threads, kind of Gandhi like style, but more comfortable on a chair. The guy selling mushrooms was either sold out or did not want to show too much of his produce.

I like a lot the one veggie stand which display its merchandise on a shelf were the shelves themselves were made of wood in a shape of barrels cut in half (the picture shows what I really mean).

It was rainy, so we left a bit faster than necessary.

All in all:  Fairly small farmers’ market, nothing wrong about it.

A little link list:

• Listing of location, vendors & products – not sure if up to date from farmfresh.org
• Nice blog post from serious eats

The post Provincetown farmers’ market, Cape Cod / USA appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Zagreb, capital of Croatia, has several nice markets full of fresh produce and Croatian specialities.

The Trešnjevka market in Ozaljska street (scroll down for map) is embedded in a busy environment not in a historical setting as the main market Dolac. It looks very much like a farmers’ market and offers daily seasonal fruits, vegetables, honey and other products on temporary stands, whereas some butchers, cheese sellers etc. are on permanent buildings on the Eastern wing. On the Western wing some cafés, bars and Cevapcici stands are located. The latter ones are open till late, a nice offer when going home late from work.

In the morning the sellers come to a central building at the market to pick up standardized umbrellas and scales (for a fee?). All temporary structures look alike which gives very much a sense of order.

All in all: a very fine market for daily consumption, a place to pick up some local food souvenirs and eat great Cevapcici. Or to get flowers for a nice person.

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