Lille in December?

Lille in December is this a good idea? Yes, the inner city shows itself in beautiful illumination at night. And people in Lille like to sit outside in cafés even in light rains when they got wet when seated at a table not fully covered. The beer culture reminded me of nearby Belgium with its wide range of choices including great local beers. Another phenomenon were all the people jogging in shorts this time of year left me a bit in in awe. I started to like the city.

The Halles de Wazemmes were in walking distance from this lively inner city.

Entering the Halles

The Halles de Wazemmes are spacious, the ceiling is high, there is enough space between the stalls to have a smooth walk around. The ambiance is rustic, it does not exude luxury but provides a large variety of quality produce and goods. There are enough places to sit down like in a beer garden to enjoy some food.

What to discover?

The Halles de Wazemmes have a classic range of produce including organic and gluten free selections. Classic meaning meat in all kinds and forms, cheese, fish, seafood, veggies, fruit, pastry, bread to name a “few”.

Selling meat also meant that the butchers still butchered on the spot displaying their business as a craft and not only as a fresh food counter. The cuts went far beyond what one can find in a supermarket. They included pork feet, offals, terrines as well as little meals to eat on the spot.

Local cheeses were very present. I learned that this region is producing quite a range of distinct cheeses. I was already aware of round pyramid shaped Boulettes d’Avesnes, the strongest cheese I have ever tasted, it is full of spices and garlic. I learned about the Maroilles with a orange-red washed rind and a strong smell. I saw a range of orange colored cheeses in different age categories called Mimolette. Of course there was more to see, but my eyes focused on those.

There was a lot of love in the display of fruits and vegetables. Presented in baskets they seemed to be curated to show the best the fields can offer. The large variety was similar to what I can find in my German home town, so there were no surprises as such. Cabbages in all shapes were not as dominant as I am used to during this season.

To my surprise fish and seafood were strongly present in the market hall. Lille is not a coastal town, but nor too far from the coast either. Local turf, nearby surf I would say. This was apparent in the restaurants as well which served a lot of fish dishes. At least the ones we visited.

What to eat?

We went to a butcher where we saw filled crêpes and got curious. It had home made bechamel sauce and cooked ham. Heated up at the counter and very delicious. The bechamel was full of muscat which gave a nice accent to the ham and the dough.

As dessert we had nice pastry served with a good coffee. Unfortunately I forgot the names of those little jewels.

And if you are thirsty, there is an impressive selection of beers available as well.

All in all

The Halles de Wazemmes are a great place to shop when you have the opportunity to cook in Lille. In the meantime enjoy the dishes available, you will not regret it.

A little link list

• The official website
• The version 2 of the official website – why?
• Documentary on YouTube from 2022

The post Simple but tasty – Halles de Wazemmes, Lille / France appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Somehow, Tanger reminded me of Athens. It is called the white city due to its white Medina and buildings; it is by the sea and hilly. Indeed, some things in common.

The Marché Central de Poissons, the fish market hall with its meat section, has the same appearance of raw produce as the central market in Athens, which I blogged about. It’s just smaller and not designed with an outer ring for butchers and an inner ring for fish and seafood. The sections were just next to each other, still as clearly defined as in Athens: one section for fish, one for meat, and one for other produce like olives.

Meat section

The butcher does the cuts on site; there are apparently no ready-made pieces delivered to the market. The view brings the basics of butchering in front of the clientele. It is raw, it is uncensored, it is real. Meat here is not as abstract as in the packages one buys at the supermarket, where everything is so clean that it is hard to imagine the piece of meat you eat was once an animal that was killed.

To my surprise, I saw more beef than sheep meat. I expected the opposite, as my memories of Morocco have always focused on the great-tasting sheep meat. Well, the Marché de Poissons visit is probably not empiric enough.

One of my favorite pieces of an animal has long been the offals. I like their deep, amber taste, which always provides warmth to the body. The butchers were not short of selling them. They hung like curtains on hooks and had at times almost the same look as an abstract painting. I have to add that my passion for offals is larger than my expertise in arts.

Fish section

he focus of the Marché de Poissons is fish; for a city that is at the divide of the Mediterranean and the Atlantic, it should not come as a surprise. Even though, I have to say that it was not so easy to find fish in restaurants.

I am not good at distinguishing the different fishes, so I cannot tell what I saw. Certainly, they did not look like freshwater fishes. Some of them had rather frightening appearances, some looked almost funny in their posing appearances, and others were quite colorful.

Shrimps were one thing I expected to see, and they were there in noticeable quantities. Other shellfish were not to be seen, such as lobsters or similar types. I saw fish eggs at more than one stall, but I never noticed that they are used in Moroccan cuisine. I have to dig deeper into this.

What else?

As it was a rather short visit to the market hall, I do not remember everything else sold at the Marché Central de Poissons. But the olives looked really nice! The spices were presented beautifully, as I remembered from my visit to Marrakesh some years ago.

All in all

The Marché Central de Poissons in Tanger is a great way to discover fish and meat as part of Moroccan cuisine. Vendors are gentle; no one refused a picture of the produce to be taken. It is worth a visit while in Tanger.

A little link list

• The Marché de Poissons on Facebook
• The post on the market hall in Athens which has something in common with this market hall
• My other posts on Moroccan markets

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A workation in Liège

My company allows us to work remotely from any European Union country. When I chose Liège — a former coal and steel city — as my destination, I had the La Batte Sunday market in mind, a place I hadn’t visited in 10 years. The post I wrote about it back then was among my first. Liège had a few other advantages: I could practice my French, and the train ride there was not too long. So many reasons to go there.

My colleagues were puzzled by my choice, and many stated that the city wasn’t really beautiful.

I loved the city after my experience. There’s lots of art scattered throughout the city, plenty of street life, great beers, and some excellent food as well. Yes, the construction sites for the tram are annoying, but I felt great there.

And I had the chance to visit La Batte market a couple of times.

What has changed?

When I look back at the old pictures, I would say: not much.

Except for one important detail: no live animals for sale anymore! In the old days, people bought live chickens, birds, rabbits, and the like. No longer. I do not know the reason behind this decision, and I’m unsure how to feel about it. The live animals provided city dwellers with a tangible sense that what they eat comes from living creatures, at least in the case of the chicken. Now, this sense fades away.

Otherwise, it seems there’s more street food available nowadays, a pattern I observe at many farmers’ markets.

A long stretch

La Batte market follows the Meuse River along the new tram line, which will be operational one day. I guess strolling without too many stops took me around 20 minutes. The stalls are lined up in two rows, making it convenient not to miss a single one.

My observations

The ambiance

La Batte market is a popular market in the best sense of the word. People come from a variety of cultural backgrounds. There is no snobbish attitude; people are dressed in whatever they want, from cheap to not-so-cheap outfits. Since the market takes place on Sundays, I saw many couples and families walking and shopping together, almost like a family visit to a mall — just that it’s outside and mainly about groceries and food.

Even if you don’t plan on buying or eating anything, La Batte market is a pleasant addition to a city stroll.

Chicken everywhere

I have never seen a farmers’ market with so many large, truck-sized roasted chicken stalls. They were being sold out quickly, as I noticed when returning from the other end of the market. I have no idea where this craving for roasted chicken comes from, especially in a city where you can find fries, kebabs, or other fast food — often quite good — on every corner.

Italian & North African

The next dominant type of stalls featured Italian delicacies. There were lots of salamis, salsiccias, and other sausages, accompanied by a fairly wide range of cheeses, some not so common. The antipasti section was less prevalent. Beautiful olives were predominantly offered at stalls with likely North African origins. Considering that Liège is celebrating 60 years of Turkish and Moroccan immigration, this makes sense.

The produce

La Batte provides its customers with every kind of produce needed for daily life, with milk being the only exception. There’s bread from bakeries located in the German-speaking part of Belgium, along with fish, and all the seasonal fruits and vegetables independent of their origin. Due to the diverse cultural and financial backgrounds of customers, it’s easy to buy in bulk and affordably. I didn’t see fruit or vegetable farmers selling at the market; I assume everything has been sourced from wholesale markets.

Streetfood

Waffles, of course — waffles. It wouldn’t be Belgium without them, and the ones I had were better than those in the city center itself.

Then there was the Moroccan stall. It looked very authentic with jolly, friendly, slightly chaotic owners who served really good food and Moroccan tea. It was a joy to lunch there.

Need other food? No problem. There were sausages in buns with lots of onions, meat skewers, burgers, hot dogs, coffee, and certainly a few more things I might have forgotten. To make one thing clear: La Batte is not a market that has transformed from a produce to a street food market; produce is still dominant. I like this mix.

The other stuff

Besides produce and street food, La Batte also features a flea market-style section. Vendors sell cheap fashion with designs I haven’t seen before. Colorful plastic toys help parents keep their little kids happy and quiet. I guess for the older kids, certainly, the street food might be more interesting.

For reasons unknown to me, detergents also had their spot at the market — something I have never seen at other European markets. Or maybe I just need to travel more?

Live animals

During my visit 10 years ago, live chickens, rabbits, and birds were available for purchase at La Batte. This is no longer allowed, but one vendor couldn’t resist showcasing cute fake rabbits in cages. I had to look twice to realize they were fake. I wasn’t the only one; kids were pulling their parents to see the cute animals until their parents started laughing and explaining the hard truth.

So what?

La Batte is a market that should be part of a Sunday city walk. It stretches along the Meuse River, which is already picturesque, and is part of the city center. Just walking through this market gives your legs a nice exercise. The ambiance of the market lets you dive into the city’s diversity. It is not a posh market but a very lively one. If you do not like crowds, try to visit around 10 o’clock, as it becomes quite crowded later without feeling too cramped.

All in all

La Batte is a lively Sunday market you must visit when in Liège, if only as part of your city stroll. Afterwards, take advantage of the nearby cafés.

A little link list:

• My 10 year old blog post on the La Batte Sunday Market
• La Batte on the city council website

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Berlin: Endearing Muse

Berlin, a city I hold in deep regard, never ceases to amaze me. While I may not choose to establish my permanent abode here due to its stressful pace, my visits to this vibrant metropolis never fail to inspire. What truly distinguishes Berlin is its remarkable diversity – a mosaic of cultures, people, and experiences that you’d be hard-pressed to find elsewhere. Each time I meander through its streets, I encounter a world of individuals with stories and backgrounds vastly different from my own. It’s a city where countless small entrepreneurs strive to create and share unique, niche products. And, of course, there’s the irresistible allure of high-quality street food. This extraordinary diversity comes to life in the heart of the city at the Maybachufer market.

The name “Maybachufer” conjures images of a market winding along a serene stream, flanked by tall trees offering comforting shade to both vendors and visitors.

Fondly known as the Turkish Market (Türkenmarkt), this market likely earned its nickname due to the Turkish heritage of many traders or because it perfectly encapsulates Berlin’s vibrant tapestry of people and goods.

The Symphony of Commerce

Maybachufer market is a breathtaking symphony of the economy in all its forms. It’s where you’ll find small-scale producers offering one-of-a-kind artisanal treasures alongside stalls piled high with budget-friendly, mass-produced items. Whether you’re in search of organic or conventionally grown foods or yearn for an international culinary adventure, this market delivers it all. Every step you take reveals products that are rare gems in Germany, from refreshing sugar cane drinks to freshly crafted Tahini, syrups infused with foraged herbs, and so much more. It’s a place where hours can slip by unnoticed as you lose yourself in its vibrant offerings.

Navigating the vastness of this market is an adventure in itself. When my nephew first introduced me to it, what we thought would be a quick overview turned into a delightful exploration. This market caters to everyone, offering a diverse range of products to suit all budgets – from wallet-friendly vegetables to the treasures of small-scale farmers and trendsetting traders.

The Art of Discovery

“Discoveries” are the essence of the Maybachufer market. Here, you can find your everyday staples presented in unique and captivating ways.

For those who love to cook on a grand scale, there are vegetables and fruits aplenty, sold in abundance and at affordable prices. These items, often sourced from wholesale markets, are labeled “Industrieware” in German meaning “industrial grade”, indicating that they may not meet the size and shape criteria of standard supermarkets. This makes them perfect for budget-conscious shoppers who prioritize quantity over organic perfection.

The market also boasts a regional farmer’s corner, offering seasonal delights like exquisite salads and herbs, albeit at a different price point. Amidst the abundance of budget-friendly produce, the presence of premium options is a welcome choice of produce.

A Culinary Journey through Turkish Culture

Maybachufer market is a vibrant celebration of Turkish culinary culture. From Gözleme and “Spaghetti” cheese to a rich variety of peppers, sesame bread rings, olives, and pickles, the selection is both vast and enlightening. This market has deepened my appreciation for Turkish cuisine, extending far beyond the well-known and beloved Döner Kebap in Germany.

A Taste of Timeless Traditions

What I consider classic style harkens back to my upbringing in Germany, a time when the influence of migrants and diverse cultures was less pronounced. In those days, choices were more limited. Classic meant butchers stocked with ample pork and sausages, limited beef, and even scarcer lamb and goat. Strangely enough poultry was usually reserved to more specialized stalls. Classic also meant a wide variety of bread, from sourdough to yeast-based, often with a touch of rye, and, of course, an array of rolls. Fish was a rarity in my non-coastal region. Potatoes took center stage among vegetables, accompanied by generous servings of cabbage. In the summertime, diversity expanded to include salads, cucumbers, and more.

You’ll find this classic style at Maybachufer market, often with a modern, artisanal twist that adds to its unique charm.

Observations from a Farmers’ Market Aficionado

The Maybachufer Market is very large, so the chances are high for discoveries of things I have not seen before or a little twist here and there. This often means that I am looking a bit deeper into offerings that I am able to consume on the spot or carry around without the need for refrigeration. So meat, fish, many cheeses, fruits, and vegetables are out of the game. Is that meaningful?

I have visited many farmers’ markets in my life and have a certain routine and experience while keeping my passion alive. Certainly, for some of them, usually the rather smaller ones, I just need a glimpse to get an idea of whether the market is interesting or not. It is fairly easy to spot if the market is just a “replica” of a supermarket offering, or if it mainly caters to tourists, or if it comes with stalls that truly have character. Character means that there is a strong regional background, niche offerings, unusual products, or a lively atmosphere because the people selling and buying are fun or knowledgeable.

The same applies to individual stalls. The questions I have in mind are: Does the stall provide unusual products, or does it have superior quality? Those are a bit more tricky to spot, especially when the focus of the respective stall is on commodities.

I also greatly appreciate entrepreneurs who are courageous enough to add new categories to a market. Here at the Maybachufer market, I found those entrepreneurs. A lady collected blossoms from different parks in Berlin to turn them into syrups and liquors. A gentleman was selling French natural wines. And a few more.

Coming back to commodities. Here, I have a harder time spotting the unusual or interesting. This could mean varieties of common vegetables with great taste or something similar, a seasonal regional specialty, or anything that makes me believe I could not easily buy it somewhere else. As I rarely buy commodities that need refrigeration when I am traveling, my eyes are not trained to spot them. That is a pity, and it’s hard to overcome.

The Flavors of Street Food

When it comes to street food at a farmers’ market, my feelings are mixed. On one hand, it adds vibrancy and provides a space for people to gather, engage, and savor delightful flavors. I’ve often observed this camaraderie at coffee stalls. On the other hand, it can sometimes overshadow the market’s traditional purpose – a place to procure fresh produce for home cooking. Fewer produce stalls may lead to less variety in food options. I’ve encountered too many street food stalls offering wraps and hamburgers, albeit of high quality, which can become monotonous, boring.

However, the Maybachufer market tells a different story. Here, you’ll find a captivating array of street food that defies the ordinary. From sugar cane or pomegranate juice to manti (dumplings) from Uzbekistan, boiled corn, empanadas, gözleme, and more, it’s a delightful tapestry of flavors from around the world. These culinary delights truly captivated my taste buds and expanded my culinary horizons.

A Dream of Melting Pot?

As I stand amidst the diverse produce and foods, amidst the kaleidoscope of cultures and businesses, I often dream of a true melting pot. In this ideal scenario, people from all backgrounds would share close relationships, harbor an insatiable curiosity for the unfamiliar, and communicate on equal footing, free from the confines of “us” and “them.” Yet, the reality I often encounter is one of co-existence without much interaction. I sometimes wonder if this is a missed opportunity.

Fascinating things happen when individuals step outside their comfort zones and engage with those from different cultures. It involves sharing ideas, experiences, and forging connections with those whose backgrounds differ from our own. While such moments may be infrequent, the Maybachufer market has, at the very least, provided me with the opportunity to glimpse a world beyond my own.

All in All

The Maybachufer market is a must-visit gem, a hidden treasure in the heart of Berlin. Its dazzling variety of produce, foods, and the people behind them, each hailing from diverse corners of the globe, is an experience that’s hard to replicate. Even if you don’t buy a single thing, it’s a feast for the eyes, a sensory journey through cultures and flavors, and a reminder that the world is a rich tapestry waiting to be explored.

A little link list:

• An other post on the Berlin market hall Markthalle 9
• How to get there from visitBerlin.de
• Some impressions from withberlinlove.com

The post Diversity at Its Best – Market at the Maybachufer, Berlin / Germany appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Filter coffee

One of the first things I discovered in Helsinki was the dominance of filtered coffee over barista type of coffee. This was also the case in the Hakaniemen market hall (Hakaniemen kauppahalli) where I had my breakfast filtered coffee with a Karjalanpiiratat (Karelian pasty) and a cabbage puff pastry. A good entry into the Finnish cuisine.

It was my first time to be in the Nordics and I was looking forward to get to now the local cuisine. My expectations were partly set by the Helsinki edition of the Fare magazine which covers cities from a culinary perspective. It certainly was different to the hype around Copenhagen. Nordic means also some kind of cool and calm to me. I found this cliché kind of true for Helsinki but without the hipster stuff. And this means focus on good, old filtered coffee.

The Hakaniemen market hall

The Hakaniemen or Hakaniemi market hall was my entry point to the Helsinki cuisine. The red brick building dates from 1914. The two floors had just been renovated and everything was white and clean. Very white and clean, a contrast to its brick shell outside. The whiteness promoted a minimalist, concentrated ambiance which helped to bring more light into the hall and let the produce shine.

The ground floor had all the produce and streetfood, whereas the top floor all sorts of hardware and souvenirs in stock.

Difference

Discovering the unfamiliar in a market is what gets my attention. That meant that I had to calibrate my eyes to the merchandise. At first sight I saw only seemingly familiar meat, fish, vegetables, flowers and delicacies. Then I dug deeper and discovered the unfamiliar.

It started with the small breakfast where the bakery was not overloaded with croissants and sweet baked goods, but served a lot of rustic ones filled with meat, cabbage, egg and similar. I had never seen Karelian pasty before, so I took one. It is a rye based oval shaped pasty of roughly 12 cm open at the top and often filled with some sort of rice pudding. A classic topping is a mixture of butter and hard boiled egg called “munavoi“. I liked it, even though I would not call it a breath taking experience. The filtered coffee was filtered coffee.

Walking through the aisles it seemed that the market hall was mainly about meat and fish, not surprisingly when you consider that Helsinki is close to the sea, has thousands of lakes and quite a lot of surface for so little people in a rather colder climate. How did I get this wrong impression? Probably because I saw only one vegetable and fruit vendor amongst the 25 or so food stalls. At second sight I found also a few bakeries, spices, delicacies from Italy etc.

In contrast to the market halls I know in Germany, I did not see traders with a Turkish, Arabic, Persian etc. family history, something I surely missed. But it is hard to tell just looking at people. Having traders with such cultural heritage creates a different layer of ambiance, style of displays and conversations, meaning more variety in the market, something I appreciate.

What caught my attention?

Sandwiches

I like bread. A lot. I love baking bread as well. And I love open-faced sandwiches. Helsinki is a feast for those, especially in the Hakaniemen market hall. I am used to little variety in Germany: mozarella with tomato, gouda cheese, Gouda with ham or salami or similar. Sometimes there are a few more “Italian” looking ones. Here the variety was large variety based on Finnish (?) ingredients. Different spreads, fish, seafood, meat and more garnished with dill or other herbs. Not so much cheese.All very nicely placed on a slice of rye or wheat bread or half a roll. Different style and different tastes to what I am used to. I liked it.

Bread

Did I mention that I love bread?

I was aware that rye is often used in Finnish breads, but I was surprised that it did not really dominate. And I did not find a lot of sourdough based rye bread. I learned from a waitress that quick breads are more common. I looked at three bakeries in the market hall, but was not really observant enough to dig deeper into the existing variety. I bought a flat rye bread wheel wrapped in plastic which was more satisfying and with a longer shelf life than I expected. It was even appreciated at home. So i had to correct a little bit my assumptions.

In sourdough oriented bakeries outside the market hall, I also could not find the dense type of rye breads I am used to in Germany.

Game meat

Bear & reindeer!

I had never seen it before. And I had never tasted it before. And it was easy to buy both in the Hakaniemen market hall. Not only at one stall. It was mostly cured or smoked and not cheap. I shared a small piece of smoked reindeer with my Croatian friend at home. We both liked it. It had a smooth, almost elegant game taste, was salty in a pleasant way and lean. Good for visitors: it is vacuumed packed.

I had tried bear on 10€ slice of bread a couple days earlier in the Vanha Kauppahalli (Old Market Hall), but was not overwhelmed. The very lean meat had the taste of a slightly gamy beef tartar. I did not see the need to bring it back home. Probably a mistake not giving it a second chance.

Fish

When a city faces the sea and has plenty of lakes in the “backyard”, fish should be common place. It was. And in a nice variety. A lot of it was smoked, cured or graved. I could not resist to sample a little and eat it in the hotel to get first hand experience. The choice was overwhelming and my stomach finite. I still have good memories of what I bought.

Of course herring, a common fish in the Baltic region was abundant in the market hall, but also salmon in a large variety of preparations. A small sweet water fish maybe twice as big as anchovies seemed to be a staple food which I also saw at the Kauppatori streetfood market. As I am not a fish expert and reading Finnish labels proved difficult to me – too lazy for a digital translator, I could not identify all of them, but I was impressed.

Else

Other stalls had also a very nice display of their goods, the owners put a lot of effort in pleasing the eyes of customers by displaying what I would call an orderly abundance. Abundance because the stalls were full of produce, no empty spaces, every square centimeter used, always the signal: there is plenty. Orderly because nothing got in the way on providing focus on the goods. No scale, other equipment or empty boxes were visible.

In Hakaniemen market hall meat, fish and bread were in focus meaning represented by more than one stall. Other produce categories were represented by single stalls only, thus clearly showing the focus here. Fruit, Mediterranean specialties, pasta, cheese, coffee, tea, flowers etc. ensured that pantries could be sufficiently filled.

All in all

I went a few days in a row to experience the Hakaniemen market hall. The hall is new and has a touch of class but somehow grounded, offering tourists a nice spot to enjoy Finnish food culture without being a souvenir place. With its produce it has a distinct character, I would not find something similar in Germany or France. I did not see extravagant offerings, but an own good quality which may represent the country pretty well. I had more fun with this market hall than with the more tourist oriented Vanha Kauppahalli (Old Market Hall).

When in Helsinki, it is definitely worth making a detour and visiting it.

A little link list

• Hakaniemi market hall on Wikipedia
• The official website and on Instagram
• A blog post from travel and lifestyle diaries
• An old post from eat-drink-man-woman-blog

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Some time ago

Three years ago I stayed in Paris in the Montparnasse area as a starting point for a visit of the Rungis wholesale market. Close to the hotel was the Marché Edgar Quinet, named after a French historian. It stretches along a boulevard with the same name – comes very handy.

I really enjoyed the market as it offered a large variety of beautiful produce, wanting me to immediately buy a bigger fridge and stove. I took pictures but never turned it into a post. Rungis dominated my mind.

Rediscovery

In December 2022 I made it again to Montparnasse and had almost forgotten that there was a market in the area. So I was pleasantly surprise to rediscover it while looking for a breakfast place.

Had it changed in the meantime?

Not really to be honest, at least not in terms of beauty.

In size?

Not sure it still stretches for quite a bit and I needed some time to cover it all. Even without buying too much.

Produce

The produce were still beautiful. These great selection of cheeses from various French regions were so seducing. From my perspective: nobody beats the French is this domain.

Oysters were plenty, in all sizes and types. I still don’t know why I did not eat any on the spot. Two times the same mistake, I should be ashamed!

Unfortunately it did not make sense to purchase some fish. Hotels are not made for cooking.

As I am baking bread, I always have to test the ones of other bakers. This time it was an organic focaccia. Good but not impressive, I do better

What I have never tried to do is puff pasty, I leave this to the pros. I bought one filled with cheese. Just great! Even after a couple days back at home and reheating in a microwave I was just delighted. Delighted by the flaky pastry which gave a light crunch entry to the melted cheese with its full flavor providing a gourmet feel good moment.

The meat displays were just great, something I have not found in a comparable quality in Germany, the Netherlands and Eastern Europe. Even the impressive assortment at the St. Lawrence Market Hall in Toronto I recently visited could not match it. The market follows the nose to tail approach. From pig feet, via tripe, marvelous meat cuts, cooked hams with their bone to whole capons with their beautifully feathered heads, it was a journey through a sophisticated cuisine.

Fruits and vegetables stalls are plenty as well, but less remarkable than the other stalls. Here even in my German hometown I have a larger variety, at least in winter time.

Ready made meals of the hearty type complement the market offering. They are worth being eaten on the spot.

Entertainment

Farmers’ markets are about the location which defines produce, prices, customers and of course the traders or producers. Some of the traders know their business, some less. Some are communicative some not.

I believe those who communicate make more business. At least with me. Even when I make myself believe that I can distinguish a good product from a bad one, a good stall owner will certainly convince me of almost anything. At least in the moment I am there.

How does it work? Talk to me, entertain me or show that you are a nerd and know your produce. Or in short: have a good story to tell.

The guy who sold nuts knew exactly how to trigger me, he made jokes, complimented me in front of my wife (I like that) and “forced” me to try a sample of his almonds. They were good indeed and I had to buy a rather too generous amount. He made me try some other samples as well, but I was strong enough this morning to resist his charm.

And of course there is the classic joke on farmers’ markets: when I am asking for permission to take photos, I will get the answer to pay for it 5 or sometimes 50 €uro. This is of course the start of a jolly chat making me happy that I asked.

I will not remember all the dialogues we had at the market, but I certainly will always remember that I was nicely entertained at the Marché Edgar Quinet, one reason to come back another time.

All in all

The marché Edgar Quinet is a traditional French market which gives not only tourists a good introduction into the produce which are at the base the wonderful French cuisine. It is neither a low end nor high end or hipster market, it is down to earth, nothing fake about it. It is worth a visit, if not a detour.

Two tips

A book which always helps when I am in Paris is the “Markets of Paris” from Marjorie R. Williams. It describes quite a few markets by arrondissement (neighborhood) and helps me to find the good ones and their opening times. It is not too recent, but still a very good guide.

She has also written a guide on markets in Provence.

On this blog you will also find posts on other markets in France. Check here

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Toronto, I like you

Winters must be cold in Toronto. This is the impression I got from the St. Lawrence market hall in the heart of Toronto, Canada.

Lots of hearty products which fill you instantly with joy and energy to overcome any harsh weather conditions. It was warm at the time of the visit but the resistance to stuff my belly was rather weak.

The St. Lawrence market hall is conveniently located in downtown in this rather pedestrian friendly North American city. It is an old spacious building with two floors where sales happen and a partly covered outdoor seating place for consumption of the foods served inside.

But the market hall does not only serve meals, it has a wide range of produce available to cater for home cooking. Toronto is a multicultural city par excellence. Nevertheless the majority of the offerings seemed to target consumers with a rather European background, thus reflecting the neighborhood.

Diving into the St. Lawrence Market Hall

The peameal bacon sandwich is the thing to try in Toronto according to several guides. It is all about a juicy peace of bacon supposed to be rolled in ground peas. I could see that it was rolled in something but I could not taste any pea. It was rather disappointing when measuring it against the hype. Still a decent sandwich though.

That experience made me skeptical about the market hall offering, which in hindsight was not fair.

Comparing with US markets

As I have been a several times in the USA, I always compared my experience there with the one in the St. Lawrence market hall. There are a few commonalities and a few differences.

Meat

The meat selection is very broad in quantity and in terms of cuts. Emphasis is on beef but I found more game meat than in the US. The game was focused on deer and wild boar, I was hoping for more “exotic” meats. Maybe this is not the area for that.

I love the displays here, they are so generous as if space is unlimited for the merchants. you have to truly walk along a single stall to get an idea of the offering, just glimpsing form one point will not help. This is probably what meat eaters consider as paradise on earth.

Considering this large offering, one must assume that people are still cooking a lot. The meat merchants all had their little ready made food stand, like ribs, wings etc. but that looked rather tiny in comparison, indicating only a small portion of the clientele not wanting to cook.

Nevertheless a merchant complained that things had change over time, that they sold more in the “old days”, and that people were not cooking as much anymore. That would mean that all the meat would be left unsold in the stall. Of course this is not the case. I am aware that in the “Western world” I am living in, home cooking is on a decline, and I see streetfood becoming more popular. Still the stall displays showed a still persistent need for produce.

Fish

Toronto is situated at lake Ontario, not exactly seaside but seems to be full of fish and seafood lovers. Octopus, salmon, shrimps, squid, oysters, tuna, trout, halibut, swordfish, cod, lobster and much more on several stalls. I did not ask how often the fish mongers get new deliveries as they looked fresh to me. Strangely enough I did not see whole fish, only filet. That’s a pity.

Cheese

The cheese stalls surprised me the most. In the US these sections are rather small, focusing on more or less local production. Here I saw so many European imports from many countries and regions. The selection would make many cheese stores in Europe jealous.

I do not know where this is coming from, maybe because the French influence via Québec is quite strong. Or maybe the import regulations in Canada are more liberal than in the US?

Some of the cheeses were brands you may find also in European supermarkets, others were more artisan cheeses even hard to find in my home town. I had difficulties to spot artisan Canadian cheeses, being overwhelmed by the wide choices.

Vegetable & fruit

Generally speaking I saw similar choices here in Toronto in comparison to Vancouver and the US markets I have visited over the years. The share of stalls with vegetables was smaller but one could find all the seasonal products. Green asparagus, all the lettuce, topical fruit, a nice selection of potatoes etc. Of course, as convenience food is gaining traction, there were enough plastic containers with cut fruit or nuts to go.

I was impressed with a couple stalls showing a wide selection of mushrooms. They get my attention as they look good to me and I am still wondering how to best prepare them.

Being unfair to vegetables

When writing over vegetable on farmers’ markets I am lacking a bit of imagination and do not present them as something special. Which is a bit unfair. Yes colorful displays catch my attention without noticing the details too much. Probably this is due to my lack of having a deep enough understanding of their origins, quality and distinctions in aromas or taste.

When I see a tomato or a lettuce or an onion, do I have an idea if it will be a good or not? No.

I still have memories from my times as a student in Turkey when the tomatoes and other veggies really had taste. And they were not necessarily organic. The same was valid for the potatoes I ate during an internship at a Northern German farm, they were so lovely. For insiders the varieties were Linda and Granola. Linda, organically grown, has gained popularity in the meantime, whereas Granola is hard to find.

Since then I have not been overwhelmed by the commercial produce. But the homegrown carrot from my colleague I got recently truly had a great taste.

I need to kick myself into my rear to get a little more exploratory here.

What else?

Toronto is a truly multicultural city. I had been walking through Portuguese, Chinese, Indian and Pakistani influenced neighborhoods. On some other spots I saw many more different cultures without having seen their respective centers. This is somehow also reflected in the St. Lawrence market hall, I observed it mainly on the food level, not so much on the produce level.

Salsa & guacamole

I go the biggest joy out a Mexican stall where I bought homemade salsa and guacamole. Eating them at the hotel was a real feast! So much flavor, nice acidity and a little trip through so many aromas. No idea how it had been created, where all the necessary ingredients imported? I doubt it.

Ukrainian bakery

The Ukrainian bakery called “future bakery”. The family fled from Ukraine to Canada with the outbreak of second World War. The name “future bakery” expressed their wish to look forward into a new future. Still the products have their roots in the former home of the family.

More goodies

The St. Lawrence market hall is not small and therefore offers a wide array of goodies which caught briefly my eyes.

A wide choice of honeys

A surprise; truffles!

Italian Pasta: fresh and imported

Of course maple syrup

Wine as well and so many other specialties.

All in all

Is it worth to have a look at the St. Lawrence market hall? For sure. When you are hungry it is good place to find yummy street food and small items to eat on the spot.

When you want something to bring home for cooking it is a great place to find a large variety of produce often of very good quality, still in a laid back fashion. Not snobbish for sure, but it would not harm to have a better display of all the goods, currently it is rather squattered and confusing. That could elevate it to very fine place.

It would be a shame not to visit the St. Lawrence market hall when in Toronto, it gives such a good introduction of what people eat here, I assume predominantly for buyers with some European heritage.

A little link list

• The official website
• The Instagram account

Map to the St. Lawrence Market Hall

The post Hearty – St. Lawrence market hall, Toronto / Canada appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

The Catania fish market gave me many new impressions which are can still recall after almost a year.

But the little street-food discoveries will remain for ever. It was not about the best pizza, arancini or other Italian specialities. These discoveries were about foods or dishes I had not known before, neither from Instagram or any other media.

They filled me with joy of an explorer of uncharted territories who can taste something new, even though it has been done as a craft by the people of Catania since a long time. Watching the people prepare the foods was different to watching somebody flipping burger patties. And the culinary sensations were so exciting to me.

Or simpler said: I experienced happiness.

Seltz Limone e Sale

As I didn’t have a coffee in the morning, I was attracted by a kiosk at the market with an espresso machine. Of course I could not resist to get a cup. And I needed a second one. I observed the owner how he was squeezing lemon into a glass of sparkling water with some white stuff on the bottom which looked like sugar. But he did not take it out of a typical sugar jar. Interesting.

But not for now, since I just had an espresso.

On my second round of the market, I could not resist. I had to try that drink. And watch the whole procedure of making this sort of lemonade. It takes it time.

First the glass is being filled several time with sparkling water coming out of a tap, pouring it into the sink and redoing the exercise a couple times. Just to get the glass in the right temperature? Maybe, even though it looked more like a ritual than something else.

Then came the white crystals, a couple spoons full. Most of it remained as a layer on the bottom of the plastic glass. I had to wait until the first sip to find out what it really was.

Then came freshly squeezed lemon juice, I’d say around 4 small lemon. They were already halved and the top removed, making them look bold or so – if you consider the peel to be hair. To squeeze the lemon the owner used a sort of pliers made specifically to get the juice out of them directly into my glass. The speed and strength used was remarkable. The result was a nice layer of foam like on a glass of beer in Bavaria.

Now it was my turn to taste this bubbly drink. I was excited to have the chance to drink something new and seemingly truly local. It was already getting warm, so a refreshing drink would be the right thing for now.

I did not get disappointed. The drink was so refreshing, the acidity and aroma of the lemon, the sparkling water … and the salt. Yes the white powder was salt, it took all possible sweetness out of the juice and added a different kind of dry freshness. Beautiful! I just had to pay attention not to drink the salt remainder on the bottom of the glass, that would have ruined it.

I came back later to drink a couple more. A fantastic simple drink this Seltz Limone e Sale.

Tripe

After my second & third espresso / Seltz Limone e Sale I turned around and saw a new scene.

A couple men were standing at a simple camping style table, picking some stuff with a tooth pick. Again something new. What was that what they were picking and eating?

I made a few steps and had a closer look. Those were pieces of offal. And I love that stuff. Of course I had to order it. 3 Euros for a bowl. The vendor had a huge beaten up pot, probably 30 liters big sitting on a small gas cooker on the floor. The tilted lid on top made a vagabond out of it. With a large fork he pulled out the boiled rumen and other offal I did not recognize. All kinds of shapes. The rumen had a pattern of a fishing net, others were curled like pig tails: a colorful assortment of offal. Things I had not seen before and still cannot name. With a swing they landed on the table and cut into digestible pieces.

I ordered my part, with his knife he pushed it on the table towards me, no bowl needed. I got a tooth pick and a lemon to squeeze some juice on top of this beautiful arrangement. I picked up my first piece and had a wonderful mouthfeel and taste. It is hard to describe. It is kind of softly rubbery, a bit uncommon with an unpretentious umami aroma.

I will probably always prefer this over a steak as it tastes more interesting to me. Yes a great steak offers a lot as well, this is why it is so popular in general. But after having eaten steaks in the US & South Africa, those in Germany do not excite me anymore. Tripe do.

Which wine does fit to those tripe which do not come with thick sauce but just plain? I don’t know. Maybe a Pinot gris?

Even without, it was a great meal and experience.

Smoke

Next corner.

A thick layer of smoke coming from a barbecue attracted me. It did not seem that something was really burning. The owner pulled off a cover of this simple rectangular and flat metal construction, only his face remained visible when all the smoke burst out. But what was on that charcoal fueled “factory”? Despite being only a curious tourist, the owner gave me a smile and made me feel good coming a bit closer taking a few pictures. What I saw were trays filled with either grilled peppers or artichokes, nicely put next to each other.

The artichokes were sitting on their stems, which became black after the procedure, the pointed “leaves” faced the sky like green flames trying to go as high up as possible. The peppers had lost their shaped like balloons without air, their skins having turned black.

They were not made to be eaten on the spot as there were no plates and cutlery laying around for customers. So I assume the gentleman helped households to overcome the tedious procedure to grill your own vegetables for lunch or dinner. As I never asked what kind of dishes are made with these beautiful products, I remain ignorant.

Making a living

How do those guys make a living? How many bowls of tripe does one need to produce and sell to make a decent living? Staying in the smoke the whole day, is this something one can do a whole life and finance retirement? No idea, I hope they all have a good life as much as they brought it to me with their wonderful products.

The post Feeling joyful like a kid – Catania, Sicily / Italy appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Approaching Catania

The fish market in Catania on Sicily island in Italy is quite known and was part of our last destination on this trip.

We came from the North Coast via Bronte on the slopes of the Etna volcano to Catania. It wasn’t exactly a pleasant day. The rain did not make things better.

The start was promising. We left Cefalu on a Sunday drove up a beautiful mountainous landscape where I was unhappy not to have enough time for a hike. The stop at a local bakery Biscottificio Miraglia in San Fratello with the most beautiful sandwiches one can imagine. Wonderful thinly sliced mortadella, prosciutto and cheese in tasty wheat rolls. Basic food in perfection.

Then the rain started and everything got truly gray. Bronte is famous for its pistachios, but nothings seemed open on this rainy Sunday. Only at the outskirts one old guy sold them out of his little old car.

And then the “trash highway” started, trash everywhere, as if the garbage collection was on strike. All the way from Bronte to Catania. I have been living or working in poor countries on the African continent but I had never seen something like that before.

On top of that we had to take a detour on the highway as the right exit was closed, leading us through not so nice industrial and commercial areas.

We finally arrived just before darkness at the hotel in downtown next to the fish market.

While it was still raining, we made a walk through town, the old architecture made the city look nicer than at the beginning. Unfortunately the fish restaurant where we wanted to eat was fully booked. I texted back home to a chef friend and got a good recommendation. Peace of mind was back.

Starting early at fish market day

We started early on Monday. At 8 o’clock we stepped out of the hotel, passing the beautiful “Fontana dell’Amenano”to enter the fish market and saw:

Nothing

Well almost.

Just a few improvised stalls and a few people.

It was so quiet that an octopus had the chance to jump out of his box full with his comrades to start moving a bit on the ground. This was probably the most lively scene yet.

What was supposed to be stalls was still empty. Was this the fish-less season? Are fish mongers getting up late? I never found out.

So we decided to stroll over to the main market to come back later. This was the right decision. The main market was very lively, big and worth a visit but this is for another post.

A couple hours or so later we came back and the stall had filled up.

The octopus was of course back in his box, and we saw many other fishes and creatures of the sea. I am not too familiar with this type of food, but it was easy to identify the mighty swordfishes, remarkable animals and to my surprise plenty at the market.

Being a tourist at a fish market

Being a tourist is a disadvantage when you are interested in fresh produce hence farmers’ markets. Some produce cannot be eaten fresh so easily, and sometimes the transport time without cooling is too long for an unspoiled produce experience.

So I feel rather like a spectator of a sea world zoo or a streetfood festival visitor than a fully embedded market visitor, especially as I am not speaking Italian or Sicilian (yes this is considered to be a separate language).

Opening my eyes, observe, trying to get good shots, this is what I am aiming for then.

What the fish market exudes

It is worth opening those eyes as I do not experience that many open fish markets in my life.

This market exudes robustness. We are not in a hipster world here. No fancy signage or displays. Lots of ice to cool down the produce. Surprisingly no shouting. Many people coming by without buying.

As the market is not one single plaza but is spread around various spaces under or next to the surrounding buildings and alleys, each corner has its own distinct set of merchants. The stalls were some times only a camping table with a few boxes, giving the impression that the gradient from hobby fishermen to commercial trader was rather fluid.

I loved the unpretentious ambiance of the market, despite being a tourist attraction life seemed normal and I did not spot any market souvenirs, neither bags nor mugs or stickers.

What the fish market offers

I have hard times remembering names. Even after decades of eating lots of great cheeses, I cannot remember their names. Okay Parmesan and mozzarella are fairly easy. But how does a Vacherin again look like? Embarrassing. Now imagine that with fish. No way. Especially as I almost only see fish filet and not whole ones.

Still it seemed that the variety was not very large, I doubt that there were more than 20 different species being sold. But all sorts of mussels and shrimps added diversity to the offering.

King of the market was the swordfish. A big fish. Some of them longer than my arm span. Its head with sword were on display quite frequently, almost like a show-off: who has the biggest. But it is also a great signage when your eyes are wandering around.

It was mostly sold as slices looking like round steaks, just that the meat was not as red, rather whitish with red tones. The muscles formed often a four leaved clover around the fish’s spine, and each “leaf” with several rings reminding of growth rings from trees.

Other fish were eel like (they looked a bit sad), some had the sizes of sardines, others were tiger like striped or looked like gilt-head breams. But as said, I am pretty bad at recognizing fish varieties and even worse at remembering their names.

Some of the mussels made us smile: in one box, covered with water the mussels seemed to burp as the infrequent air bubbles coming up to the surface indicated.

It was not clear to me where all the fish and seafood came from. Where they captured in the Mediterranean Sea or did they come from further away? Were they captured by small scale fishermen or by large fleets?

Some of the frozen fish in boxes for sale, indicating a diversity of origins. Next time I will look at the individual labels to get a better understanding of the market.

The other side of the market

imagine an inner circle for fish and an outer ring with vegetable shops, butchers, cheese mongers and a few rather unusual stalls. This outer ring complements the fish market in a very nice way. And it is worth exploring the beautiful produce!

Being October the fruits and vegetables were still very colorful almost summer like, not so many tomatoes, but prickly pears all around.

The butchers were of the rustic kind, cutting the animal parts in front of the customers, something I do not see this that often anymore. Nose to tail was not a trend, tripe, liver, pork feet seemed to be part of the local cuisine. I really love to see the animal being used in his whole entity and not being so abstract as in the plastic wrapped Styrofoam boxes in supermarkets.

The cheese mongers made it easy on me, they vacuumed some of my purchases, especially the smoked mozzarella was still great at home.

The local street food experience was great (no burgers!) and deserves another post.

Was it worth the visit?

Open fish markets are always fascinating to me, so far the most impressive one was in Athens but I also experienced one in Marseille.

When I see all the fishes I am always asking myself: how were the fish killed, how much did they have to suffer? Are the areas where the fishes came from over-fished? I never properly researched on those questions, probably of fear that I would not accept the way these animals are treated and eaten.

It is hard not to be sucked in into the beauty of the Catania fish market.

All in all: The Catania fish market is worth a little detour, its rustic ambiance and the fascinating offering and surroundings being the reasons.

The post Robust – Fish market in Catania, Sicily / Italy appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

Corona and farmers’ markets

Corona times have their impact on farmers’ markets. In my hometown Bonn (Germany), the downtown market suffered as all surrounding shops were closed. When was that? March, April? Corona took away my sense for date and time.

The markets in the suburbs boomed as home office meant also cooking at home instead of eating in the canteen at work. And supermarkets did not always provide the “proper” environment in these times.

Besides those general trends here in Bonn, there was also one person who stranded in Bonn during Corona times and built his own business at the market.

This is the story about Baptiste, a French student who visited his German girlfriend and because he could not travel back anymore decided to start again baking bread on a wood fire oven and sell it on 2 markets in Bonn.

He got into contact with a local pizza backer “Pizza Prinzip” , who caters with his wood fire oven pizza for several markets, and off he went.

So let’s listen to his story and craft.

How did it all happen?

Askan: Baptiste, who are you, where do you come from and what are you doing in general?

Baptiste: I am Baptiste Hagège, French from the Southeast of France, more precise the Drôme region. I am into sports, rehabilitation and physiotherapy and another passion: bread and pastries. I am doing the latter one since being a little kid.

Since you were a kid?

Yes indeed, since I was 13, I was selling cakes and pastries in a bakery.

Great. And how did it happen that you came here to Bonn?

My girlfriend Nadine is living here in the city of Bonn and I was suppose to visit her for a weekend. But with Corona suddenly air travel stopped, everything was shut down. So I decided to stay with her during the times of Corona.

That sounds quite romantic. I hope she liked it as well.

Yes, very much.

Now you are working at the market in Oberkassel (neighborhood in Bonn) with a wood fire oven from Pizza Prinzip. How did that cooperation happen? You probably haven’t heard from Pizza Prinzip already in France.

I discovered the farmers’ market at the Frankenbad in Bonn and I asked myself, hey why not start selling bread here. The major things for selling bread are, first making bread, having flour and an oven. For the flour I discovered the nearby Broicher Mühle and afterwards I started looking for a wood fire oven. I approached several bakers in vain and then I contacted Zoe who is running the Frankenbad market, who told me to call Boris (owner of Pizza Prinzip). We started a trial with one of his ovens and it worked out. So he told me: just do it!

So we started the first Friday market here in Oberkassel, it worked really well, people were coming back the next time, they really liked the bread, which is the most important part (laughing).

Baking bread in a wood fire oven

But tell me, what is so special with a wood fire oven? At home I am baking bread as well, but only in a normal electric oven.

What’s so special about the wood fire oven is that you have to preheat the stones inside first, then you put the bread in the oven and do not heat it anymore, the stones give back the heat. Therefore one has to master the heating of the oven, meaning having the right wood and fire to heat up the stone to the right temperature.

What does it do to the bread when you bake it in a wood fire vs. an electric oven like at home?

Well it first adds taste to it. A more distinct taste to the bread crust and a particular color, a little darker. The bread will also not be uniform, there will be for example some darker spots due to some ashes or so which gives authenticity to the bread.

Is it harder to handle such an oven?

Yes it is more difficult than pressing a button of a regular oven. Each one is different. And it is after two months that I start to understand how the oven works. Before that it is only tests. So it is a long process. Of course the type of wood is important which will add taste to the bread and heat up differently.

A different style of breads

When I look at your breads, your Pain au Chocolat, I wouldn’t know which type of style they are. The baguette is not the one I usually see in France, neither will I find your other breads in a German bakery. How would you describe it?

Well, I would say it is a bread from former times and which comes back into fashion again. The breads are sourdough based which helps to keep them fresh longer and gives them a distinct taste, a certain acidity. It won”t be the classic baguette which is eaten immediately. I am using whole flour not the white one.

Which are the flours you enjoy working with?

For making bread I like working with spelt, the one you can find here and the one from France.

And what do you like so much about spelt?

The “little” spelt is one of the most ancients cereals. It is a bit yellow and has a distinct taste, slightly spicy somehow, slightly sugary , a quite particular cereal.

Spelt is different to wheat, it will not rise as much when baking. And here in Bonn is also different to the one in France.

Oh really? What does this mean?

In France we have an organization which protects the “little spelt” . Here in Germany it cross bred with wheat, looks a bit more brownish, with a strong taster, partly reminding of rye. So it is really a different flour altogether. In France spelt is strongly protected and therefore “pure pure”.

Is rye being used in France?

Yes. And here I discovered at the “Broicher Mühle” a super beautiful rye with yellow, purple, black, white colors. It is really great to work with, it has a great taste.

The experience selling at a market

Have you ever worked on a farmers’ market before, with your own oven etc.?

Not it is my first time. It is the first time that I sell bread on a market.

Where you not scared working at a market making your bread “live” in front of everybody?

Oh yes, I was scared. When I had my first breads, they were a failure. So I put them aside. Then somebody wanted to buy them and I told him: no don’t buy them they are not good. But he still wanted to buy them and he liked them. The next breads turned out better nevertheless.

You had some experience as a youngster selling bread in a bakery, is this experience here at the market very different?

Ooh, yes, yes, it is a bit different. First it is a bit more complicated as I do not speak German. Okay, I know spelt flour, rye flour or “would you like a Pain au Chocolat” in German. But beyond that the communication with the people is different.

So it is the smile which wins at the end of the day, even under a mask in Corona times?

Exactly, the smile with the people is what counts. Then the people are happy.

Is it always the same people who came to you to buy bread? Or did it always change?

I have base of loyal customers, that is really a great experience, one of the most positive things I am taking with me being at the market. You meet every week the same people, they provide me with feedback, telling me what was good and what not so good as you have to consider that I am not really a professional who has done many markets. So I get a lot of advice from the local customers, and that is really super. And what is great they still come back when there was something not so great. They try something different, it is really nice.

The difference between markets

You are working at two markets: the one here in Oberkassel, rather a suburb and the other one at the “Frankenbad” in the “old town” of Bonn at the center. Is there a difference between the 2 markets? Or are they the same?

No, they are very different. On the level of the organization and people. In the “old town” market I have to first produce my bread in the oven and the transport it to the market with a trailer on my bike. Here in Oberkassel I produce the bread on the spot itself. There is also a different ambiance, here in Oberkassel people take more time to talk with each other. À Frankenbad people have less time, but they are a very different type of people. So there the markets have different type of customers, event though the age groups are similar at my stall. But as a whole there are more young people at Frankenbad who are more interested in the initiative. In Oberkassel people prefer the more traditional side. In Oberkassel the people are interested in the fact that I am a young guy and working to get things done. Frankenbad has a more alternative ambiance also when it comes to consumer habits.

And what does it mean in terms of sales? Is it different as well?

No, not really. People come, ask what kind of bread it is, we give them advice for example what they are going to have for dinner and give them the best choice. On the pastry level people have also the same preferences. It is kind of balanced between the two markets.

I have heard that you will come back one more time and then you will leave?

Yes.

Leaving the beautiful city of Bonn,

yes

your girl friend,

yes

the chance to bake bread and sell it

yes

Which is really pity from my perspective.

Now I know: I can make it!

But tell me how would you characterize your experiences here? What are your lessons learned? For you personally.

In the meantime the cook from nearby bistro came by and wanted to buy some bread as well. And after a chit chat Baptiste commented:

You see it is nice, he gets some breads from me and he brings me his great bowls, this exchange is really a nice experience. But also the ambiance amongst the traders is great. I give bread, I get fish. That is really a particular ambiance.

So what does this experience here means for your future? Is it something you do not want to do anymore because it is so hard?

It gave me the idea that it is feasible to do it. Baking breading, finding flour, starting the business, people who come back to buy again. At the beginning we wanted to do it for ourselves and now we want to do it for the customers. So these two things blend together, that is really super. I really got the feeling that I can make it.

So it means that one of these days we will see you here again? Maybe during vacation?

Why not. I call Boris (Pizza Prinzip owner) and will ask him if I can bake some bread in one of his ovens and then we start again.

Any final words?

First, I would like to thank Boris a lot for his help, he gave me everything and trusted me. That was top. You know I just the capabilities and he gave me all the materials. And even when I had a strange idea, he said “no worries, just do it”.

And second I would like to thank all the people from Bonn who bought my bread.

Epilogue

I was really impressed how Baptiste got stranded and found a way to make a living in a foreign city without any knowledge of the local language. And how people like Boris are helping in a practical way without knowing about the outcomes. These are the stories which make farmers’ markets unique places full of life.

A little link list:

• Market in Oberkassel
• Farmers’ market at the Frankenbad
• Pizza Prinzip who helped Baptiste with the wood fire oven
• The local mill Broicher Mühle for Baptiste’s bread
• The other markets in Bonn on this blog

The post How Corona “helped” me to start a business – Interview with Baptiste at the Oberkassel Farmers’ Market appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.