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Yes! This is the feeling I got when walking through the Thursday market in Rethimno. Yes, because when you think Mediterranean you think colors, freshness and buzz. And this what I experienced.

A rainy day

No a good start of a day when you do vacation on Crete: gray clouds and increasing amounts of rain. But this cannot stop a market aficionado, better get wet than missing a chance. And it was worth it, as there were a guy selling cheap umbrellas and friendly vendors with their large enough marquees.

Colors

Stepping around some water peddles I came across approximately 60 stalls each with its own small truck in the back with replenishment. It was a feast for the eyes, everywhere local produce of the season in all their colors: tomatoes, peppers, grapes, beans, apples, pears, leaves, okra, clementines, potatoes, nuts, beets and much more. I saw freshness everywhere, and the produce were not standardized and photo perfect as what I am used to find in supermarkets. It was great to see that the produce had their own personalities aka. shape, color and size, their roots certainly have touched some real soil. Nothing seemed to be coming from a wholesale market. I saw apples which the size of apricots, and they had their distinct taste. Just great to see, smell and eat that.

No butchers by the way.

Buzz

This market does not focus on products for tourists. Certainly, there was nicely packaged olive oil, herbs and honey available, ready to bring back home on a plane, but this was something everybody bought anyway. The market was clearly made for local consumption, people were walking around selecting their fresh produce by themselves, the mostly large quantities handed to the trader to be weighted and paid for.

The crowd was astonishingly relaxed and even the partly heavy rain die not create a bad mood. As the vendors had large marquees, there was shelter for some people at least. The umbrella vendor probably had a good time as well.

Still what impressed me most, is that the people really looked at the produce, smelled and touched it before making their own selection. This to me is a sure sign that people still have and interest in good food, and put a high value into tasty, satisfying meals.

Viagra

Quite a few vendors were able to speak at least a few words in English making interactions possible, something I really love about markets, they produce nice little stories and memories which pop up from time to time when I am day dreaming.

This way I learned about the Cretan Viagra. “I got one son from it!” the cheese monger said, “it is Viagra” pointing at the cheese I could not identify and looked a bit different from the others (check picture gallery). “One son!” he said again. With a help of a friend he explained me that this hard cheese was made from goat milk and ripened in a kind of goat skin bag. A must buy, as it is so rare to see. I still have some at home, easy to preserve. Unfortunately I forgot its name. Anyway, the aroma is intense as can be expected from an aged cheese, yet does not remind too much of goat or goat skin. And I cannot confirm the Viagra part of the story.

Buying as a tourist

When I am visiting markets outside my own city, I often buy produce like sausages, cheeses etc. because of easy transportation and no need of refrigeration. As I wrote after my visit at the Fresh Market in Bratislava: it is a mistake. First of all it narrows down the experience and secondly the opportunity to expand aroma knowledge.

This time I took besides cheese, nuts, almonds and herbs some grapes, apples, mandarins, yogurt in small quantities. It was worth it and it was possible to consume it without refrigeration. Okay, I had to hurry up a bit.

Many tourists on Crete like the market hall in nearby Chania (see my post). It has a wonderful architecture, there are some nice places to sit down and eat small dishes. But it has transformed over time and the availability of local flavors has decreased. I had more fun at the Rethimno market as it represented to me more of Crete “authenticity” or at least what I believe it to be. The market was not fully of street food stalls, just a few pies were available, enough to get a taste, while not having the feeling ot be at a food court.

And despite the rain I had a good time. What do I want more?

All in all: a traditional Mediterranean outdoor market keeping up a great local experience in the middle of a tourist region.

A little link list:

• A short post with a map on other markets on Crete Island
• Another culinary must see in Rethimno: one of the last hand made filo dough makers
• A nice overview on the different Cretan cheeses with pictures & names
• And a little hint from the BBC on foods not to miss on Crete

The post Traditional in the city – Thursday market in Rethimno, Crete / Greece appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

MEAT!

FISH!

This is what you get to see in abundance, and only this, when you enter the central market hall (Dimotiki Agora) on Athina street in downtown Athens.

This rectangular central market hall is organized in a sort of layers. On the outside of the building there are many small shops of all kinds. Coming inside you will see only butchers when walking one round in the building. Then heading towards the heart of the building there is only fish vendors. This offering only focused on meat (beef, chicken, sheep, rabbit etc.) and fish is rather unique and reminds more of a wholesale market.

The meat alley has one butcher next to the other with stands all looking alike. Each stand has a glass structure which is cooling room and show room alike. And there is only meat cuts, no sausages or further processed meat besides minced meat. And it is possible to buy all parts of the animals, including feet, heads, intestines, rumina etc. Many of the butchers (male only) have a big wooden bloc in front where they cut the meat in front of the buyer. All the friendly vendors are dressed in a white apron. And when there are no customers around they chat and laugh with each other, giving a sense of community.

In the centre of the market hall are the fish mongers. In contrast to the butchers they do not all wear white clothes. The fish variety is large but not overwhelming , some seafood is available as well. coming from a country further up north, it is always impressive to see squid and octopus as well. This section was quite louder than the meat alley, is fish more inspiring?

On the outside of the building there is a collection of smaller shops with a large variety of offerings: bakery, coffee roasters, dried fruit & nuts, cheese (feta), household tools etc. There it is easier as a tourist to find something to bring home.

All in all: a market hall which caters for daily needs not for tourists. A feast for meat and fish lovers, definitely worth seeing

A little link list:

• Nice blog article with lush pictures from Matt Barrett’s Athens survival guide

The post Central Market, Athens / Greece appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.

The market hall of downtown Chania on the island of Crete in Greece is cross shaped, almost looking like a church when seen from above. Even looking to the iron construction and the glass of the roof reminds one of a church service.

The mix of stands is quite nice, the focus of the products is on basic foods: cheese, meat, vegetables, olives, fish. It looks like a market hall for locals. The way meat is presented is old fashioned or rather robust: whole chicken, sheep heads, whole rabbits etc. It is for sure not a supermarket presentation. And therefore really interesting.

There is lots of local cheeses, even though the variety is limited and often vacuum packed. Fish looks really yummy and seems to be an important part of the diet. Well, we are on an island.

The market hall is also very tourist friendly. It is easy to find some gifts to bring home, also home made raki, kind of a grappa, meaning that is does not taste like anise as usual in the Mediterranean region. Mix the raki with honey from Crete, it tastes nice. Local herbal tea is also sold in large quantities, people seem to enjoy staying healthy.

There are also some joints in the market hall for lunch, and it can really be recommended. Simple, tasty food and quickly prepared.

All in all: A nice market hall, worth a visit, especially for non-vegetarians.

A little link list:

• The official Chania market hall website
• A short description and pictures of the market hall
• A nice areal picture of the market hall plus additional pictures
• A nice blog entry from eatasyougo.blogspot.de

The post Market hall Chania, Island of Crete / Greece appeared first on Food & Farmers' Markets.